On Good Friday 2019 I went for a ride around the southern section of the Centenary Trail, taking my camera with me so that I could photograph interesting subjects that I found. Back then I the only lens that I had to use for such a trip was a Canon EF-S 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM that had been a kit lens with my first DSLR that I bought, about ten years earlier. I was using that lens because I wanted something would give me some range but I did not want to take my bulky Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM, mainly because I was worried about breaking it. Since that ride I had always intended to complete the Centenary Trail by riding the northern section and also take a camera along, however, now I would take a Canon EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM and a Canon EF40mm f2.8 STM so that I was better prepared for what I may see.
So that was how I found myself astride my mountain bike (MTB) on Friday, 15 January 2021 at 6AM heading off to join the Centenary Trail where it passed through the Canberra suburb of Forrest with the intent to follow the trail in a counter-clockwise direction. I was a little nervous because I knew that the route would be probably longer than I had ever ridden on my MTB and I was even more nervous because the front wheel valve had been playing up a few days before so I was worried that my tyre would become useless at a point far away from road access. Balancing those concerns was my excitement at seeing a different part of the Australian Capital Territory (ACT) as well as the nature that I would encounter. I knew that the countryside would be beautiful but I was also hoping that I would find some wildlife to photograph. I was not really carrying the right lens for birds, that would have been the 100-400mm lens, but the 70-200mm lens proved really useful for the Eastern Bearded Dragon and Shinglebacks that I encountered, as well as some dragonflies. Sorry, the post below is a bit light when it comes to birdlife, and there are also way too many quick snaps with my iPhone, but I hope that you like the photographs nonetheless.
My actual 91km route
Before I describe my ride, just briefly, let me introduce the Centenary Trail, which is a 145km route that loops around the whole of Canberra. The ACT government officially opened it in 2013 as part of the centenary celebrations of the city of Canberra. The trail is really a series of paths, roads, tracks and trails that link up in a single route to showcase parts of Canberra as well as to explore the history and natural beauty. The trail goes to the northern-most part of the ACT and in the south runs beside the Murrumbidgee River, while it also cuts through some of Canberra’s suburbs. Throughout its length the trail passes several iconic landmarks and places of historical importance to the ACT.
Australia’s Parliament House is one of the iconic landmarks the trail passes
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 20, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/320 SEC])
The Australian War Memorial is another landmark
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 20, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/180 SEC])
Once I joined the trail in Forrest I was heading in a northerly direction through urban areas and it was not until I was past the Australian War Memorial that I entered the nature reserve around Mount Ainslie. From that point the trail was mainly fire trails and single track. The trail traversed the Mount Ainslie Nature Reserve on the eastern slopes before joining the Mount Majura Nature Reserve. For MTB riders the trail was a slightly different to the route used by walkers. Walkers follow diversion paths that take them to the summits of the high-points along the way while MTB riders bypass those summits. I think that was mainly down to the fact that most of those summits require stairs to reach them. So to avoid putting in bike trails with a lot of switchbacks that would require a lot of damage to vegetation, when there are already walking trails and roads to the summits, the MTB riders by-pass the summits. If riders are really keen, there is nothing stopping them from hopping off their bikes to walk up the peaks.
That section of the trail had some beautiful views back over the city that almost made the area look like it was still a rural location, not the capital of Australia.
From the Mount Majura Nature Reserve the route followed some rocky trails before paralleling Horse Park Drive and crossing underneath that road so that the trail then followed the Federal Highway almost to the border with New South Wales (NSW). The trail dipped under the highway through an underpass that I had never noticed before and emerged out the other side onto a grassy ridge that then dipped down to the Goorooyarroo Nature Reserve.
Panoramic shot from the western side of Mount Majura, already looking rural
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 32, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/1000 SEC])
A nice rural scene just before entering Goorooyarroo Nature Reserve
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF40mm f2.8 STM [ISO 200, 40mm, f/10 and 1/100 SEC])
After the trail exited the Goorooyarroo Nature Reserve it followed a fire road. One of the brilliant aspects of the Centenary Trail was that there were information boards at certain locations to explain the importance of that site. Below was an example of one such board explaining about the surveying of the ACT’s northern border.
Example of an information board, in this case explaining about the surveying of Canberra
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 20, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/750 SEC])
Area behind the information board above, showing what I believe was the original boundary marker fence, the new fence was the perimeter of Mulligans Flat Nature Reserve
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 20, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/750 SEC])
A short distance from the information board I entered the lovely Mulligans Flat Nature Reserve, which is always a pleasure to visit and always well maintained. It was such a relaxing experience biking through the reserve. A number of other people were also out enjoying the morning by walking, running and riding.
I ended up stopping near a small pond when I saw some water birds swimming not far from the bank. I felt that if I was able to approach the bank slowly then my 70-200mm lens may be able to get some passable shots of the birds. I also thought it was just a nice place to stop for a look. I was not trying to set any speed records on the ride, I was out to see what the Centenary Trail had to offer so I was taking advantage of beautiful locations to stop and enjoy.
Cycling through the open vegetation in Mulligans Flat along well maintained trails
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 25, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/3700 SEC])
Pond that I stopped beside at Mulligans Flat
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 20, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/850 SEC])
The birds that I saw swimming on the pond were three Pacific Black Ducks (Anas superciliosa), which appeared to be one adult and two immature birds. They were swimming reasonably close to the bank while preening themselves and occasionally dabbling for food.
Pacific Black Ducks on the pond
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM [ISO 500, 181mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
There was also an Australasian Grebe (Tachybaptus novaehollandiae) swimming on the pond in its breeding finery. Out of the breeding season these birds will lose the lovely chestnut brown and vibrant yellow colouring around their head. This makes sense from a survival perspective because those brighter colours will make the bird more obvious, especially in the depth of winter when most of the foliage around the pond is looking dry and dead. These birds may have up to three broods during a breeding season but once the preceding brood is capable of looking after themselves the parents will drive them off before raising a new clutch of chicks.
Australasian Grebe
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM [ISO 320, 200mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
While I was photographing the birds above a Black-faced Percher (Diplacodes Melanopsis) landed on a reed in front of me so I took a photograph. Unfortunately, this was not a good angle to see why these dragonflies are called Black-faced Perchers. Given the colour of this dragonfly it was most likely a female. It stayed perched on the reed while I was photographing the birds but once I stood up, I guess my movement spooked it, it flew off.
Black-faced Percher
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM [ISO 500, 200mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
From Mulligans Flat the trail climbed up a line of hills that ran beside the ACT and NSW boundary. The trail was a sun-hardened, rock and dirt path but on the NSW side there was a graded, gravel road in a private property, if the numerous signs warning people not to cross the barb-wire topped paddock fence were to be believed. The signs and the rusty barbed-wire did not stop me from standing in the ACT and looking across the fence at the view, which was spectacular. It was a view that was lost in a photograph because it was so wide, with rolling hills seeming to be like sets of waves travelling off to the horizon. There was a lot of cleared, rural properties but also some trees interspersed among the landholdings. It was a nice reward for the climb, although there were still a few more climbs to go before the trail got me to Hall.
Standing in the ACT and looking north into private property that is in NSW
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 25, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/6000 SEC])
While I was taking the above photograph a female Blue Skimmer (Orthetrum caledonicum) landed on the trail near where I was standing. Both males and females have this yellow-like colouring when they emerge from the nymph stage but the adult will gradually turn to a pale blue, giving this species its common name. The female’s blue is less intense than the male’s colouring. This dragonfly appeared to be sunning itself on the ground. it originally kept flying away from me, along the wheel pad we were both on, but then it flew across to the parallel wheel pad and actually landed a little closer to me.
Blue Skimmer on the trail
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM [ISO 100, 200mm, f/8.0 and 1/640 SEC])
The trail continued to follow the border and it also climbed up a challenging hill but the views were worth it. This time the trail ran just below the crest of the line of hills so the views were back towards Canberra. It was interesting to see where the new northern suburbs of Canberra were being laid out, with impressively sealed roads in perfect grids providing easy access to bare plots of land. It made sense to have the road network in first so that it would be easier to then build the houses but it was also a reminded that the urban sprawl was un-ending with more land being constantly consumed to provide for a growing population. The 200th anniversary of Canberra may see a trail that follows the edge of populated suburbs with no real sense that the route ever gets away from the city’s inhabited areas.
Further along the trail, looking south into the northern suburbs of Canberra
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 20, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/3700 SEC])
The trail would disappear into what may have been remnant bushland before again traversing a cleared area. I met another rider who was out on the trail and we partnered up for a while for some company. He had ridden the Mulligans Flat to Hall section a few times so gave me good advice on what hills we were facing.
We had re-entered some bush when I came around a bend and almost ran over an adult Eastern Bearded Dragon (Pogona barbata) that was getting some sun on the trail. My shout and sudden braking had my new companion concerned that I had encountered a problem until I pointed the lizard out to him. I invited the other ride to continue on because I knew that I would be photographing for a while. We bid each other a good ride and parted company to enjoy the morning in our own ways.
The dragon had run off the trail as my front wheel came very close to its tail. Fortunately, for me, the dragon did not run very far but propped itself up just beside the edge of the track. It barely moved while I photographed it, just dropping an eyelid that was facing the sun in between the head shots that I was lining up on it. The lizard was very calm, even letting me get reasonably close with my iPhone for a quick snap. That said, staying motionless is part of the threat response of these lizards, they rely on their camouflage to keep them safe, only displaying their beard and puffing their body up if they feel they have no other choice.
Although I had seen bearded dragons before this was the first chance that I had to photograph one and I found them a beautful looking lizard, with more colour on them than I had expected. Although I would have loved to have seen the ‘beard’ in full display I did not want to disturb this lizard more than I had by almost running it over with my MTB. When I had taken far too many photographs I expressed my appreciation to my reptilian subject and mounted my bike to ride on, with a thrilled feeling about my chance to photograph an iconic Australian lizard. Not even all the movement and noise associated with my departure caused the dragon to move, I guess that it had found a new sunning position so it was staying put.
Eastern Bearded Dragon that I almost ran over
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM [ISO 160, 70mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
Closer view
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM [ISO 160, 200mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
Between Mulligans Flat and Hall there were some really beautiful trails that were good for MTBs. Indeed, as I got closer to Hall it seemed that the trails became better for MTBs with berms on the corners to make descending on a bike much easier. I also liked how the tail moved between different types of vegetation, from the open grass lands with tall, yellow, waving grass stalks to the closed bushland where the trail wound around trees and occasionally almost disappeared under fallen leaves and bark. This part of the trail is well known for its natural beauty, which was on full display that day and I did not want this stretch to finish.
The Centenary Trail uses pre-existing fire trails in places
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 20, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/2500 SEC])
Along that stretch of road in the photo above I was able to photograph a more typically coloured Blue Skimmer that decided to land on the gravel. I saw a number of these dragonflies along this northern stretch, indeed one almost seemed to be riding my ‘bow wave’ like a dolphin at sea because the dragonfly stayed in front of me for a good stretch of the track.
A more typically coloured Blue Skimmer
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM [ISO 160, 200mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
A bit further on from where I took those two photographs above the track entered back into some bushland. As I came around a sharp bend and then up a very slight rise I initially thought that a horse had places some large droppings beside the trail before I realised that there were two Shingleback (Tiliqua rugosa) skinks getting some sun. They initially stayed put but as I photographed them they slowly started moving in opposite directions. I think the one actually on the trail may have had a problem with its left eye because when it turned that side towards me I could not make out any colour change where its eye should have been.
I am unsure if these were a mating pair because it was a bit after their mating season, which is usually September to November. In this species the young are borne alive and are ready to essentially fend for themselves almost immediately. The young are in a good position to look after themselves because they are almost half the size of their mother at birth, a truly proportionally large size. Mating pairs are also interesting because while these skinks are predominantly solitary animals they will often mate with the same partner through re-occurring seasons. This faithfulness between partner lizards was recently recorded in a very sad photograph.
As I had written above I was already excited by photographing the Eastern Bearded Dragon but after photographing the Shinglebacks I was truly over the moon and I felt that the decision to ride the trail that Friday was completely vindicated.
Two Shingleback skinks beside the trail
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM [ISO 400, 70mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
The one closer to the trail, on the left in the first photograph
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM [ISO 400, 110mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
The second one
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF70-200mm f/4L IS II USM [ISO 400, 70mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
After photographing the Shinglebacks I did not take any more photographs. I did see a young Shingleback as I was climbing a switch-back closer to Hall but I felt that were I to. stop that I may not start again. I also saw another Bearded Dragon near Black Mountain but it dashed off the trail well before I got close because it must have heard the racket I was making as I thundered along the descending fire trail.
I had a brief stop in Hall to get some water and a soft drink before resuming my ride. The route was back through the suburbs and the town centre of Belconnen but there was a nice section through Black Mountain Nature Reserve and then part of Aranda Bushland Nature Reserve, although MTBs have to bypass the trail through the main part of Aranda to help preserve the environment.
Stump beside the trail getting closer to Hall
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 20, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/1400 SEC])
I also think that the day was becoming too hot for a lot of animals, they would have been more sensible than me and sought shelter from the heat of the day because it was already 25 degrees Celsius by that stage.
To sum up the ride, I really enjoyed the trail, although I spent much longer riding than I planned but the trail went through some stunningly beautiful territory. The 91km ride was challenging, especially towards the end when I ran out of water for the last hour. Although Hall was a nice place to stop, it did not have the type of grocery or convenience store I needed to buy a large bottle of water and an isotope sports drink, I probably should have resupplied in Belconnen but I wanted to get through that town centre and back onto some dirt. The trail also went through Gold Creek but that had become very touristy so it was a bit congested with no obvious place to buy drinks from or a secure place to leave my bike. Still, I am glad that I undertook the ride and I would certainly recommend it as a way to see some of the beautiful natural heritage that the ACT has to offer.
Thanks for reading this post and thanks also for looking at my photos. I hope you come back again to read more about some of the wonderful natural things that the ACT has on offer. All the best until the next post.