Shoalhaven Gorge is a stunningly beautiful gorge just a few hours from both Sydney and Canberra. I had paddled up the Shoalhaven River in July 2020 but I had not gone as far into the gorge as I wanted. So, jumping ahead to January 2021 I was fast running out of time to paddle the gorge before I needed to return to work. My initial plan was to do a two day trip with an overnight stay in the gorge but for a number of reasons I could not make that a reality. In the end, I was left with the option of waking at 4AM to drive almost three hours in order to paddle 13km up the river and 13 km back down, to then drive another almost three hours to be back in Canberra that night with my family. It had to be done. And, I am glad that I did paddle in the gorge, the beauty of the location and animals that I saw made the trip more than worthwhile. I watched a White-bellied Sea Eagle fly along the river and I also had to chase away a Lace Monitor from my stationary kayak were just two of the encounters that will stay with me. I hope that you like the photographs below.
My actual route
Waking at 4AM was not hard, in fact I was up before my alarm, excited about the day ahead. My only concern was about whether my anticipation the night before had delayed me falling asleep thus robbing me of the important sleep that I needed for almost six hours of driving over two trips. However, I must have had enough rest because I did not feel the strain while I was driving. The drive to the Shoalhaven River was a blur in some respects. I was able to get on the road around 5AM on Monday, 25 January 2021, officially a work day before the public holiday the next day for Australia Day. The sky was still dark and the roads were quiet hence why the start of this trip felt a bit surreal. I was hoping that this Monday was going to be quiet on the river because it was still a workday but when I arrived at Tallowa Dam carpark, I found it almost full with cars.
Once I was parked It took me about 30 minutes to get everything out on my car and to launch my kayak. With that I found myself paddling across the open waters of Tallowa Dam. Looking to the left while I was paddling was like looking from inside a large horizon pool because the dam’s spillway was not visible from the height of the kayak. It therefore seemed that the lake finished at a straight edge with the valley continuing into the distance.
In not much time I was heading up the Shoalhaven River towards the gorge. There was a bit of a head wind, but not too strong with just another breeze to help keep me cool on a day that was forecast to reach the high 30s for its maximum temperature.
Shoreline beside Tallowa Dam spillway where I set off from
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 20, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/250 SEC])
While paddling along the more open parts of the river I spotted a beautiful Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo) taking advantage of the morning sun warming itself on a branch of a sunken tree. The black plumage of the cormorant was a shimmering rich, dark blue in the rays of the sun. The bird looked truly magnificent perched on its bland grey branch. These birds are found across the globe and Australia, with them being particularly numerous in this south-eastern corner of Australia. They prefer permanent bodies of fresh water so a dam is an ideal location because there will always be water. They are good swimmers, which is a skill they need to hunt their fish prey underwater.
Even though I was a distance away from this bird I could see from its movements that it was uncomfortable about my presence. Without me getting any closer I noticed the bird start to bob up and down then it started moving its wings before it decided enough was enough and launched from its branch. Its initial movement was a curve down towards the water even as it beat its wings. It then picked up enough speed as it moved close to the surface of the water, with its legs acting in unison like paddles to keep it from going into the water. After a few splashes from its legs, while it struggled to get truly airborne, it managed to accelerate enough so that it raised its legs as it gracefully arced upwards and flew towards a branch of a tree. I did not try to follow it because I did not want to disturb the bird.
Instead, I continued paddling, happy that I had seen my first bird on the river and happy that it was a cormorant, because I have a soft spot for that group of birds.
Great Cormorant
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 250, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/800 SEC])
Not liking the attention
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 250, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/640 SEC])
Shortly after leaving the area where I had seen the cormorant I came to what I felt was the entrance to the scenic Shoalhaven Gorge. The escarpment seemed much closer and steeper than before. The sun was still not fully up so there was shade on one side of the gorge, offering some relief from the heat of the sun although I tended to paddle away from the shadows because I wanted the light for photography and I was enjoying the warmth on me. The gorge is in Morton National Park so the bush came right down to the water contributing to a sense of remoteness. This area had suffered some fire damage during the horrendous bushfires 12 months previously but there were also a lot of bushland that was untouched.
I paddled past a number of overnight campers and a few people in kayaks and canoes that appeared to have broken camp already to head back to their cars.
Entrance to Shoalhaven Gorge
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 500, 100mm, f/14 and 1/250 SEC])
As I paddled around a bend, close to shore, I notices movement in the water around a little object on the surface of the river near the bank. As that little object got closer to shore a body emerged from the water and the little object was clearly the head of a Gippsland Water Dragon (Intellagama lesueurii howitti) that was heading towards the bank. It climbed out of the river up onto the low, green vegetation. It remained still while it appeared to scrutinise me and my blue kayak. After a little while it decided that it needed more distance from me so crawled a bit higher up the bank. Each time the dragon moved it just put a little more separation between us but that often meant just a few more bits of small plants that made photography more challenging.
I kept seeing these superbly adapted creatures for this environment while I was paddling along the river. I could have included more photographs below but I controlled myself.
Photographs two and three were of a dragon on a rock shown in photograph two. I don’t know if it was sunning itself or just trying to get warm from the ambient temperature because that part of the bank was in more shade than sun. Unfortunately, my kayak drifted too close to the rock while I had my eye glued to the camera viewfinder. I tried to reverse my kayak with a small stroke of the paddle but that movement sent this reptile into the safety of the water. Fortunately, it did not swim fully away but paused under the overhanging bank in front of some leaves. It stayed in that position, with just its head out of the water so that its eye could stay focused on me. I really liked how the lighter colour of its skin made it stand out against the background and I am glad that the photo turned out.
Very nearby, I saw the dragon in photograph four, although I almost did not see it. The obvious bit of wood sticking out of the water drew my attention first but there was a strange colour on it. I almost thought that I could detect a shape on the bark but I was not certain. The first shot I took was to help me determine if there was indeed something on the stump. The lizard was staying very still with only its yellow throat hinting that there maybe something of interest attached to the stump. Once I saw on the screen of my camera that there was a lizard I took several more photographs to ensure at least one turned out.
The final shot below was of a dragon that was sunning itself on a log that had fallen into the river not far from the lizard in photograph four. It was initially further down the log looking very relaxed. It is easy to see when a lizard is relaxed because its hind legs are often upturned with the soles not resting on the ground. As I approached this dragon moved further on the log and cocked its head towards me.
First Gippsland Water Dragon I saw that day
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 320, 300mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
I really liked the colour of this one
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 220mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Unfortunately, I scared it into the water
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Initially, I had to look closely to see if there was a dragon here
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1250, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/250 SEC])
One last picture
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 500, 176mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
Although there were still more water dragons I realised that if I photographed everyone of those beautiful creatures that I would never complete my paddling. By that stage I was well inside the gorge and just enjoying the scenic majesty of the area. I was glad that I brought my DJI Mavic Air 2 because it meant that I could get a shot of the gorge from a higher perspective than from my kayak. By photographing from that angle I was able to show the size of the gorge’s sides, especially when compared to me in my kayak.
My kayak in the gorge
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 100, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/640 SEC]
My turnaround was the Shoalhaven River Camping Spot, a quiet area where there were a few open spaces that would allow people to put up tents. There were several Casuarina trees providing some shade as well. After I had my kayak pulled-up securely my first order of business was a swim in the cool, refreshing river. The cooling water had an immediate revitalising effect. The water was not cold but comfortably cool, which helped to lower how hot I was feeling without being uncomfortable. I really enjoyed just floating in the river.
I was torn a bit, because I figured that I could probably keep going up the river but I also knew that I had to drive back to Canberra that day. I sent my drone up that showed the river was still able to be paddled but I knew that time was against me. In some respects the decision was made for me because I had such a good time photographing at the turnaround stop that I ran out of time and had to head back.
My kayak at the turnaround spot, with up-river to the right
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 100, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/640 SEC]
Looking further up the gorge from the turnaround spot
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 100, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/640 SEC]
Opposite bank from the turnaround location, showing the damage from a swollen river flow with the knocked down trees along the bank
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 100, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/640 SEC]
After landing the drone, and before I put it back in its bag, I was distracted by a pair of Orange Threadtail (Nososticta solida) damselflies mating and laying eggs. Prior to the behaviour in this photograph the male would have grasped the female as he has here but the female would have curved her tail up into the a special opening in the male where he had moved his sperm. The pair will stay in this wheel for 5-15 minutes, after which, as shown below, they will fly off, in tandem, for the female to lay the eggs in the water. Although the male is territorial it was interesting to see a second pair laying eggs beside them and further down the river five pairs were lined up alongside each other, all laying eggs in the water.
Orange Threadtails mating and laying eggs, male on the top female on the bottom
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1250, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/250 SEC])
While I was photographing the damselflies above I heard a loud plop come from the river. I looked to where there noise had come from, assuming that a fish had jumped out of the water before splashing straight back in. I was not expecting to see a metre long Lace Monitor (Varanus varius) swimming up the river close to where I stood. I also quickly realised that it was turning, apparently making straight for my kayak, which was beached on the shore. In my mind I thought the monitor may have smelt food, although all the food was still wrapped in dry bags. I started moving towards the kayak, calling in a loud voice, “no, not the kayak.” Because obviously, these monitors would clearly understand English. The lizard stopped just beneath but parallel to the kayak, before swimming quickly under the front of my kayak to the nearby shore, where it slowly crawled up on the bank. Once its body was mostly out of the water on the sandy bank, it paused long enough to flick its tongue, have a good look at me and then wander off into the bush.
These lizards are more commonly seen in trees and they are often referred to as Tree Goannas. Their diet consists of other small animals, including other lizards, so possibly some of the water dragons that I had already seen.
I was so excited to see this animal, especially swimming so effortlessly in the river, and at such a close distance. I suspect that it was probably not after the food in my kayak but was just trying to get to the shore and had chosen a path towards my kayak. I was annoyed with myself for spooking the monitor because after that brief pause on the bank it crawled off so I was not able to photograph it again. Still, I was more than happy that I had seen it.
Lace Monitor swimming in the general direction of my kayak on the shore
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 2000, 400mm, f/10 and 1/1000 SEC])
Crawling ashore after going under my kayak
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 2000, 142mm, f/10 and 1/1000 SEC])
The other animal that I photographed at the turnaround spot was this Mosquito Fish (Gambusia holbrooki). It was acting strangely, staying near the surface and with its strangely discoloured and possibly disfigured tail it was very obvious. I suspected the tail colouration was from a disease or illness. This species of fish is introduced and is a threat to many native water creatures because it is a voracious eater and drives away competition.
These fish were originally introduced into NSW rivers in the 1920s to help control mosquito larvae, being aquatic insects at that stage of their life cycle. However, these are aggressive fish, nipping at the fins of even larger fish to drive them off. Being wise after the event, it also appears that these fish are no better at eating mosquito larvae than similarly sized native fish.
Mosquito Fish with probable diseased tail
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 2000, 400mm, f/10 and 1/1000 SEC])
Somewhat reluctantly I started to get back in the kayak. I wished that I was camping the night because it seemed such a beautiful location and I would have had more time to explore and photograph. However, that was not the plan and I needed to ensure that I was back in Canberra before evening.
On the way back I noticed a whitish bird in a tree, which I realised was an immature White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster). This bird looked to be hot, with its beak open and tongue raised. This was the hot part of the day and at some stage my GPS watch registered 40℃, and it felt that hot. The bird did not like my presence and even though I was still a distance from it, the eagle flew further along the river to another tree.
These eagles are Australia’s second largest bird of prey after the Wedge-tail Eagle. When this bird is fully mature its current brownish body feathers will change to a brilliant white plumage, hence the name of the species.
After watching the eagle from a distance on its new perch I decided not to disturb it any more because it was such a hot day and I had air conditioning in my car but the eagle had only its natural body mechanisms to keep it cool.
White-bellied Sea Eagle
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 100, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Also on my way back I was determined to try out my Aquatech Elite II sport housing and PD-140 Lens Port that I had bought in 2020 with the idea of getting into shallow-depth underwater photography. I had meant to do my first shoot in Sydney over the Christmas period but the COVID-19 outbreak there meant ACT residents were told they could not travel to Sydney. So, for this kayak trip I placed my Canon EOS 7D Mark II into the housing and brought it along with the hope that I would find some clear enough water to make it worthwhile. Unfortunately, I did not find that clear water but I was still determined to use the camera.
I pulled my kayak to the shore near some sunken trees so that I could take some shots. I admit that these shots are actually very bad but it was a start and I am now really excited to try again but in better conditions. I was thrilled to see photos that I had taken beneath the water and I know that there is a whole world there to explore now with my camera.
At that moment, I was also happy to hop in the water again because it was starting to get really hot.
Attempted over-under shot of a tree
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF16-35mm f/4L IS USM [ISO 100, 16mm, f/8.0 and 1/80 SEC] in an Aquatech Elite II sport housing and PD-140 Lens Port)
First underwater shot of the best subject that I could find at the time
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF16-35mm f/4L IS USM [ISO 100, 16mm, f/8.0 and 1/125 SEC] in an Aquatech Elite II sport housing and PD-140 Lens Port)
Paddling back towards where I started from was not as easy as I would have hoped. About halfway there a strong headwind blew up that made paddling very hard. While the wind was blowing I felt the strain on the front of my shoulders with each stroke. The wind did not last long but I was exhausted. With just over two kilometres to go I felt that I had to stop to eat a late lunch. I had thought about pushing on to have a meal at where I camped six months earlier or even find a place on the drive home but I really needed a rest. I set on a small bit of grass with my feet in the water while I used my kayak as a table. I enjoyed more swims both before and after lunch to help cool me down. I initially felt better when I started the final leg but I quickly faded and the final kilometre was probably the slowest I paddled the whole day. I would take a few strokes before Ietting the kayak’s momentum continue the journey for me. I even tested just using my hands rather than the paddles to see how effective that would be because having my arms in the cool water gave me some relief. I soon realised that the paddle would keep me going faster. I even wet the kayak deck a few times because the heat coming off it was irritating me, and the rising heat also carried the smell of hot plastic straight into my nostrils. When I reached the end of the paddle, I beached my kayak and just flopped back into the beautifully cool lake water, letting my body take in the restorative touch of the liquid relief.
Shoalhaven Gorge is a truly beautiful trip that I would thoroughly recommend. The escarpment fencing me in during the paddle made my world seem so small but it offered such natural majesty. I am sure that will not be my last trip to the gorge and I would love to camp as far up the gorge as possible so that I could really explore the photographic opportunities. The gorge is so rich in wildlife and I am sure that I would find so many subjects that even two days would not be enough.
Thanks for reading this post and thanks also for looking at my photos. I hope you come back again to read more about some of the wonderful natural things that I have been fortunate to see. All the best until the next post.