Narooma is a town of about 3000 people on the southern coast of NSW. Its urban centre spans the truly crystal blue waters of the Wagonga Inlet. Travelling south by car from Canberra it is easy to find this summer holiday destination because the Princes Highway travels around a sharp right corner before crossing over the inlet. Narooma is a beautiful gem that has grown mainly along the southern side of the inlet and the Pacific Ocean on the sea side. No major rivers flow into the inlet, just a some creeks, making the water beautiful and clear. It is no exaggeration to say crystal blue, because that is what the water is. I have previously posted (here and here) about this wonderful seaside destination and we ended up spending a fair bit of our summer holiday in Narooma, being captivated by the beauty. It would be hard to select a single photo to represent the locale but Glasshouse Rocks, on the southern side of the town, is worthy of consideration for that role.
This is the first post in a series of five looking at different aspects of wildlife at Narooma. In this post I am covering the environment around Narooma. I took my camera with me on holiday because I knew Narooma was going to be beautiful and I hope you enjoy the photographs below.
As some historical background, Narooma was established in 1881, although there had been European settlements in the area earlier, further up the Wagonga Inlet. Some buildings form the original European settlement, including a sawmill were established at Punkalla, on the banks of what is called Punkally Creek. The purpose of this small settlement was to support the forestry and gold mining occurring further inland. Remains of the sawmill are still visible today with wooden poles protruding rib-like from the bank of the creek. They are not far from the mouth, on the righthand side travelling up the creek, with kayaking being the best way to see the remains up close.
Wagonga sawmill ruins on Punkally Creek
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 2500, 100mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Another reminder of the earlier settlement is Wagonga Wharf in Brice’s Bay. The wharf is on the west side of Wagonga Inlet just after the inlet swings northwards away from the main Narooma township. Between the old pylons that supported the original wharf a new jetty now stands.
In looking at the old, chipped pylons it is hard not to notice the colours left over from rust and other weathering processes. The greens and yellows were a surprise splash of colour. The colours may attract attention but musing about the size of those old timber supports standing in the water, contrasting with the smaller jetty, subtly speaks of a heyday long past when reasonably sized vessels made it that far up the inlet carrying goods for the people further inland.
Eastern Yellow Robin on the marker stone of Wagonga Wharf at Brices Bay
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 500, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Reamins of Wagonga Wharf at Brices Bay
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 4000, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/500 SEC])
Close up on the colours in the wharf post
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 250, 100mm, f/10 and 1/400 SEC])
Wandering along the southern side of Wagonga Inlet in the town of Narooma itself there is an old shed that in the past probably fronted onto the blue waters of the inlet but now Grey Mangroves hem it in from the waterside and Casuarinas from the land. The well weathered shed may not have any historical value but its colours blend nicely with the surrounding foliage. Its dishevelled appearance speaks of abandonment but there is a sense of resilience. Also, the modern lock on the door indicates that it is still in use.
Abandoned shed in Narooma on the inlet, surrounded by mangroves and casuarinas
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF40mm f2.8 STM [ISO 400, 40mm, f/18 and 1/80 SEC])
Once historical structure that is definitely still in use is the bridge across the Wagonga Inlet, Bridge lovers will immediately recognise it as a bascule span bridge with the concrete weight above counterbalancing the span when it needs to be raised to allow a boat through. In 1931 the government finished installing the bridge, creating a permanent crossing for the Wagonga Inlet. Nowadays motor vehicles continue to rumble along the Princes Highway over the bridge and into the inviting town of Narooma.
A wooden walkway runs the length of the eastern side of the bridge. The walkway provides a lovely way to look down into the clear waters below that are often in movement with the tide hurrying in or out of the inlet.
Opening central span steel bridge over Wagonga Inlet; with a central boating channel
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 100, 100mm, f/11 and 1/100 SEC])
Walkway along the side of the bridge
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 100, 100mm, f/11 and 1/160 SEC])
Narooma is located on the south coast of NSW, facing out onto the mighty Pacific Ocean. The waves roll onto a series of beaches around Narooma, with Bar Beach North being the closest one to us. The beach is not patrolled and most people do not move far from the southern end where the carpark and toilets serve that beach as well as the netted beach and boat ramp to the south.
Waves heading into the shore at Bar Beach North
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 640, 286mm, f/14 and 1/1250 SEC])
Narooma Beach is further south on the other side of the inlet and is more popular, with a Surf Lifesaving Club and a beachside cafe. Towards the southern end, the beach narrows due to a headland and rocks, where the waves make nice pattens running over the rocks above the shallow sandy bottom.
Aerial shot of the waves hitting Narooma Beach
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 400, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/500 SEC]
Glasshouse Rocks dominates the southern end of the beach. There are actually two rocks beside each other but looking from the north, the normal view, the rocks line up to give the appearance of a single, massive rock. Crashing waves against the hard surface of the rocks make for dramatic photos. There are so many different ways to photograph this picturesque location and the changing sea conditions mean that each photo is likely to be unique.
Waves hitting Glasshouse Rocks seen from beach level
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 400, 300mm, f/14 and 1/1000 SEC])
While Narooma sits beside the sea, without Wagonga Inlet the town would probably not exist. Initially the inlet provided a protected way to supply inland settlements and to load resources for the journey to the Sydney markets. Now it is hard not to notice the stunning natural beauty of this waterway, especially the changing colours of the water. No major rivers flow into the inlet meaning there is no large discharge of mud or farming run-off, leaving the sea to refresh the inlet’s water with the tides. The sand flats in the wide part of the inlet make the colours transform through blues and aquas as the tides change the water levels. The colours of the view are constantly in transition with shallower water producing bands of yellow, aqua and blue across the inlet.
Different colours across the shallow waters of the inlet
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 400, 400mm, f/18 and 1/400 SEC])
I really loved viewing the colours from above with a drone, the vertical aspect brought out the beauty of the scene. The wind rippling the water reminded me of looking through a textured glass window. While the shadows of the sand ripples gave further texture to the picture, and the single faded red channel marker added a colour contrast to the shot.
Sand ripples on the bottom of the inlet seen through the clear, shallow water
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 200, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/640 SEC]
To the west of Narooma is Gulaga, which used to be called Mount Dromedary. The mountain dominates the inlet.
Gulaga from the inlet
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 200, 100mm, f/13 and 1/400 SEC])
The inlet is tidal with the daily movement of the water keeping the internal water refreshed and clean with new seawater. The authorities have attempted to train the inlet in order to preserve a channel for boats. Now the curves of the inlet have rocks marking the channel and preserving depth all the way to the bridge, while behind the rocks there is shallow water that completely disappears at low tide. There are some openings in the rock wall to make it easier for water to move, allowing the habitats behind the rocks to have regular fresh seawater. Because of the volume of water leaving the wide part of the inlet to the west of the bridge, when that water pushes under the bridge on the way to the sea it creates a strong current for a period of time. The tidal surge can be so strong that it actually floods back into the sand flat in front of Narooma making the outgoing water there swirl in an eddy and slowing down the ebbing tide off the sandflat.
Ebbing tide from the main channel on the left pushing across the rocks into the much shallower sand
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 100, 100mm, f/14 and 1/320 SEC])
Wagonga Inlet’s clear water is a hive of recreational activities. Power boats zip along the channel with some heading out to sea for the fishing. Because of how narrow the channel is the speed limit in some places is 4 knots, which also reduces the erosion effect of the boat wash on the shore.
Power boat travelling up the inlet from the bridge
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 100, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/640 SEC]
Kayaking is a great way to experience the inlet although paddling agains the strongest part of the ebbing tide is a good workout.
Kayaking to the bridge
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 100, 100mm, f/11 and 1/180 SEC])
The clear waters invite snorkelling. The clean water also seems to draw a rich multitude of marine life, from Australian Fur Seals down to tiny shrimp. The water is about 18 degrees Celsius but in the shallower parts the sun’s rays are reflected off the sand creating a warming effect on the water above. Even walking a few steps onto the submerged flats to watch the underwater world through a face masking can be very rewarding.
Couple preparing for snorkelling in the inlet
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 250, 100mm, f/14 and 1/800 SEC])
Stand-up Paddle Boards are very popular, especially west past the bridge where the large sand flats are. An ebbing tide may take them past the bridge but heading towards the calmer water closer to the shore will normally get the people back to where they want to be.
Couple on a stand-up paddle board
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 400, 100mm, f/14 and 1/200 SEC])
Swimming in the inlet is very enjoyable. While there is a netted beach close to the mouth of the inlet many people happily hop into the cooling water wherever it is most convenient. It is a great way to counter the heat of a summer’s day.
People swimming near the bridge
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 250, 100mm, f/18 and 1/125 SEC])
Sea and land travel are two methods of getting to Narooma, and South Coast Seaplanes offers a third way, with plane trips between south coast destination or even just sightseeing over the wonderful waters and lush countryside.
Seaplane for showing visitors around the beauty of the south coast
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 100, 104mm, f/13 and 1/400 SEC])
Narooma is rightfully famous for its delicious Sydney Rock Oysters. The clean water of the inlet, as well as the successful efforts to re-establish the previous vast seagrass beds ensure the Wagonga Inlet oysters have a unique, clean, delicious taste. The inlet is lined with oyster leases along much of its length and some of the farmers sell the fresh oysters direct to the public in Narooma. An oyster freshly shucked by the person to eat it is a rich taste of the juicy oyster and the slightly briny water the oyster is holding in its shell. It is by far the best way to savour an oyster because you genuinely taste how a clean habitat enriches the whole ecosystem, even for the top-level consumers. It may seem cruel to talk about eating animals as a justification for keeping the inlet clean but when so many livelihoods depend on the quality of the water, people have a true stake in preserving the quality of the environment to the benefit of all the lifeforms around the inlet.
Looking down on just some of the oyster leases in Wagonga Inlet
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 400, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/400 SEC]
At the very end of the inlet, about 8 km from the sea, I came across a couple of sheds on opposite sides of the inlet. They were overlooking the final oyster leases on the inlet before the waters split into tidal creeks. I want to think that these structures were part of the oyster farms and that every now and then, a contentedly exhausted farmer would prop themselves on the basic verandah with a cold drink of their choice and let the location’s solitude give them some well deserved tranquility. The real world was not far away but surely a person could rest in that spot for a little while, isolated by water and woods, with nature recharging weary muscles. Well that’s what I would do. I would probably go bankrupt because I didn't get enough oysters to market.
Not a bad office at the top of the inlet - ideal for servicing oyster leases
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1000, 100mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
Fresh seafood is available right on the inlet. Narooma is not a fishing harbour as other places on the south coast are, although there are a few fishing boats. Wagonga Inlet and the waters out to Montague Island are part of the Bateman’s Marine Park. For fisherman this has been a controversial decision that has made it harder to earn a livelihood in a global marketplace where cheaper seafood can be imported from international locations. However research shows that marine parks provide a buffer zone for marine life to rebound from over-fishing, with fish stocks eventually spilling into waters beyond the parks where fisherman can benefit. Unfortunately, for fishing communities along the south coast there have been hard times because of the demise of fish stocks but the towns have also seen a boom in tourism as people discover the natural beauty of the region.
Shops selling fresh seafood beside Wagonga Inlet
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF40mm f2.8 STM [ISO 250, 40mm, f/18 and 1/125 SEC])
Spotted Gums proliferate around Narooma, with a striking stand of them being parallel to the coast, north from the boat ramp near the mouth of the inlet. The trees’ crowns interlock, fence-like while their bending trunks and the ground in-between are very open. If somebody told me that the trunks turned into wild dancers at midnight I would not doubt them.
Spotted Gum trees
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 250, 117mm, f/9.0 and 1/400 SEC])
One location that I kept returning by land, kayak and snorkelling was the small, almost drowned Lewis Island. This small island of sand and silt had a resilient stand of Casuarinas with a thin fringe of Grey Mangroves. The north-eastern end of the island had a sturdy footbridge with a white painted wooden fence on the lagoon side, while a metal grating with corrosion resistant covering provided a sturdy walkway. The island was a breeding ground for Pied Oyster-catchers and a sign at the footbridge asked people to be cautious at breeding time. The island was generally clear of rubbish despite its popularity and a convenient picnic table and benches near the footbridge. I guess people saw the beauty of the place and understood the part they needed to play. A single rubbish bin on the shore side of the footbridge was all that was needed to allow people to deposit their rubbish to keep the island clean.
Lewis Island see from the above Wagonga Inlet
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 100, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/640 SEC]
Walking to the island is easy across the well constructed footbridge. The photograph is deceptive because it was taken during a king tide when the water was almost up to the bridge. Crossing the bridge is always interesting because the water is clear and it is easy to see the marine life in the water below.
Foot bridge to Lewis Island
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF40mm f2.8 STM [ISO 160, 40mm, f/18 and 1/320 SEC])
There is an active oyster lease to the west of the island. The lease sits in the shallow channel between the island and the shore without hampering the movement of kayaks or snorkelers. Both activities being dear to my heart.
Oyster leases under water at hight tide
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 200, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/640 SEC]
Using the drone to fly above the small island some of the dead Grey Mangroves caught my attention. One of them had hand-like branches reaching up grasping for its survival or maybe beseeching the world to pay attention to its plight. The drone provided a completely different aspect to the shot, with the still water confusing as to where the ground is.
Dead Grey Mangrove grasping at the world above
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 200, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/640 SEC]
Oyster-catchers and Silver Gulls are regular visitors to the island. At love tide the birds make tracks in the damp sand. Being birds they can fly onto the sand, making the tracks appear to suddenly start. The tracks formed a lovely contrast with the lines in the sand from where the water had been lapping a few hours before.
Bird tracks on the sand
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 400, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
The inlet opposite Lewis Island is very thin with the sand bank from the far shore reaching a long way out. At low tide not all the sand bank is exposed but the water is still shallow. The marker buoys for the boating channel are not far apart near Lewis Island and clear water can make the shallow bottom easily visible. Stingrays seem to find this area of the inlet a good hunting ground and I often see them there. I was very happy that one photo-bombed this shot.
Narrow boating channel with stingray swimming on the bottom
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 200, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/640 SEC]
Narooma is a really lovely part of the world where we enjoyed spending a lot of time over summer. There was so much to see and do, with bountiful natural beauty. Narooma has captured our hearts and there will be more content from there reflected in this blog - I suspect people won’t object.
Thanks for reading this post and thanks also for looking at my photos. I hope you come back again to read more about some of the wonderful natural things that the south coast of NSW has on offer. All the best until the next post; Sea-eagles, herons and oystercatchers - Beautiful Narooma Part 2, Summer 2022/23.