The afternoon sun was getting low in the western sky when we finished walking along the boardwalk at Merimbula. This walk took us from the bridge over Boggy Creek in the centre of town, along the side of Merimbula Lake. The tide was low with mudflats and sand exposed. A group of egrets were wading through the still waters of Merimbula Lake and among them was a lone Little Egret. The sun was on the other side of the birds so they were not in an ideal position but the Little Egret raised its head to look in the direction of the sun and I was able to get a photograph when its eye glinted in the sun and there was a rim lighting effect on its white plumage. That was at the end of day one of our trip to the south coast of New South Wales. We needed a coastal fix to recharge our batteries from an early, cold winter in Canberra. We spent four days along the south coast, looking at sites from Eden up to Narooma. It was a wonderful trip to a beautiful part of the world. I hope that you enjoy the photographs below.
Merimbula
We stayed two nights in Merimbula to allow us to explore the area. Merimbula town has a population of about 3500 (2016 census data) and occupies the estuary of Boggy Creek, which is referred to more commonly with the nicer sounding name of Merimbula Lake. The town is 250 km south-east of Canberra. We were lucky with blue skies and very little cloud the whole time we were there. Despite being winter the temperatures were mild and very tolerable, especially for people fleeing a Canberra winter.
Looking across Boggy Creek to the town of Merimbula
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 20, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/500 SEC])
Just walking along the footpath beside the water from the bridge to the centre of Merimbula there were some grevillea shrubs adding islands of greenery to the concrete slabs. One of these shrubs was alive with a couple of birds including at least one Little Wattlebird (Anthochaera chrysoptera). The birds were not far from me as they darted from one branch to the next. I was only able to take a single decent shot but I figured the bird was finding enough food because it had some yellow pollen remnants stuck to the top of its beak.
Little Waltlebird in a street-side grevillea
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 100, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Across the bridge in a banksia tree a number of beautiful Rainbow Lorikeets (Trichoglossus haematodus) were enjoying themselves early one morning. These colourful, noisy birds were a pleasure to see because they are so beautiful.
Rainbow Lorikeet enjoying some banksia nectar
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 160, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
When we first arrived in Merimbula we had a lunch at the Waterfront Cafe that was situated on the edge of the esplanade with a lovely view over Boggy Creek towards the estuary entrance. While we were having lunch the mudflats were mainly exposed and a collection of water birds were making the most of the feeding opportunity. Apart from the usual Silver Gulls, and even an Australian pelican, other water birds, such as these Bar-tailed Godwits (Limosa lapponica), were happy wading near the busy esplanade. The godwits are impressive endurance flyers with an individual of this species flying 11 000 km non-stop over eight days from Alaska to New Zealand.
Bar-tailed Godwits wading across the mud near the town centre
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 160, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Merimbula, like most of the estuaries along the south coast has three types of habitat. The estuary itself, which can also include mangroves. The ocean-facing sandy beaches, and finally, the rock shores, normally around the headlands. Merimbula has embraced its estuary which is the centre for the oyster farms and recreational activity. There was also a well maintained boardwalk that fringed the lake from the bridge for about two kilometres up-stream. The route was a combination of sturdy wooden planking and making use of dirt trails along the shore. The wooden sections traversed shallow water when the tide was in and there was no fence so we felt very unrestricted in our views. We had a lovely afternoon stroll along the boardwalk enjoying being able to get up and close with oyster farms as well as walking through the Grey Mangrove (Avicennia marina) habitat.
Grey Mangrove
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 400, 100mm, f/10 and 1/100 SEC])
Because the tide was low when we were on the boardwalk we could easily access local oyster farms to look at the bag method of oyster cultivation. Merimbula Lake does not have a major river flowing into it so there was not much mixing of fresh water with the tidal movement of salt water. The bag method of oyster farming was more environmentally friendly because it reduced the impact of the farming structures on the lake bottom. The reduction in disturbance encouraged a return of sea grass that helped develop a healthy ecosystem, which in turn led to better tasting oysters.
Oyster farm exposed by the tide
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 320, 100mm, f/14 and 1/100 SEC])
Of course, there was also the land-side of the walk and I liked the way that a ray of sunlight was illuminating this wonderfully orange-coloured fungi on a duller grey-barked tree.
Fungi on a tree
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 400, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/100 SEC])
The number of birds attested to the health of the estuary. A Little Black Cormorant (Phalacrocorax sulcirostris) was swimming in the lake when we walked past.
Little Black Cormorant
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 160, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Later on we noticed a Little Pied Cormorant (Microcarbo melanoleucos) apparently settling down for the evening on the railing of a convenient wharf. The railing was attached to a private boat house so while I could photograph the bird along the railing, I could not easily access the wharf. I wondered if this bird had noticed the inability of humans to walk along the wharf so it felt safe there. I wondered why it wasn’t further along the wharf, perched at the end, but I guessed the occasional passing water craft probably meant that the bird felt safest half way along the wharf where it was hard for land or water predators to approach it.
Little Pied Cormorant resting on a wharf railing
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 2000, 400mm, f/7.1 and 1/320 SEC])
There were a number of Australian Pelicans (Pelecanus conspicillatus) around and one of them flew parallel to the lake bank, lit by the golden beams of the afternoon sun.
Australian Pelican flying
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 160, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/640 SEC])
Towards the end of the outward walk along the boardwalk we came across some wooden stairs that allowed access to the exposed sand. Because nobody else was around I took a moment to sit on the steps, enjoying the quiet serenity of the situation. Sitting there quietly a White-faced Heron (Egretta novaehollandiae) did not not notice me because it flew in to land not far from me. The sun was going down and the light was not great but I took a few photographs. The bird seemed to find some things to eat in the shallow water because it regularly plunged its beak into the lake.
White-faced Heron coming in to land
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 400, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
A little while after seeing the heron was when I saw the little Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) stunningly illuminated by the low afternoon sun. The water was calm with the movement of the egrets making the only waves. Again, I just took a moment to reflect on the tranquility of the scene and how fortunate we were to live in a country where it is so easy to watch nature go about life.
Little Egret being lit by the setting sun
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 400, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
There were other forms of life as well including a Mud Whelk (Pyrazus ebeninus) that was left dry by the ebbing tide. The mud was still moist around it so no doubt it would be fine until the flooding tide covered it again. It was a solid feeling shell, with thick walls. Aborigines used to eat this animal with its shell often recorded in middens. European settlers also ate it but these shells are no longer sold in fish markets.
Mud Whelk
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 400mm, f/10 and 1/100 SEC])
Not far away lay a Sydney Cockle (Anadara trapezia) with about 40 cm of living kelp sprouting from an anchor spot on the cockle. I was not sure if the weed was better as camouflage, or made life harder, because the shell would be more disturbed by the sea moving the kelp around. Perhaps that was why the shell was lying where it was. One interesting fact about this species, is that unlike most species of shellfish that have blue or clear blood, this shell has red blood.
Sydney Cockle with seaweed attached
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 400mm, f/10 and 1/100 SEC])
Walking back along the boardwalk the light had gone so there was not much option for photography but I did like the colours of the setting sun reflected on the water around this boat with green oxidisation.
Tin boat floating on the incoming tide at sunset
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1600, 100mm, f/10 and 1/80 SEC])
Another habitat that we explored was the sandy, ocean-facing beach. Merimbula Beach stretched from the estuary entrance, arcing south to the Pambula River mouth. The beach faced due east to blue, choppy waters of the mighty Pacific Ocean. Somewhat unexpectedly for a beach these days, I do not recall seeing any washed ashore rubbish on the beach. The whitish sand seemed to be pristine with just natural flotsam tossed up by the wash from broiling waves. In the morning the sea seemed to be calmer than the day before with smaller waves pushing up the beach. Photographing towards the sun rising over the headland I was hoping to capture the golden light reflected on the water’s surface.
Morning wave in the golden glow of dawn
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 2500, 100mm, f/8.0 and 1/1000 SEC])
Turning around I saw a bit of kelp that had been ripped from a plant for the waves to carry on to the beach. I thought that would make an interesting subject, and then I noticed how the purple glow of dawn was reflected in the thin film of water left by each retreating wave. I wished that I was a better photographer to do justice to the simple beauty that I saw that morning.
Kelp on the purple-lit morning beach
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1600, 100mm, f/8.0 and 1/200 SEC])
On a morning visit to the beach, three Masked Lapwings (Vanellus miles) regarded me from their spot higher up the beach above the berm. Their calls were unmistakable. The photograph also clearly shows the spur on their wing that can inflict injury on those who venture too close to the bird’s nest. These three did not seem to be breeding but something caught their attention further south because they flew off south, shrieking as they went, their calls eventually lost in the sound of waves landing along the shore.
Masked Lapwings on the beach regarding me with interest
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 500, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/100 SEC])
On an afternoon visit to the beach we saw three Australian Pelicans standing at the point of sand where the estuary flowed out to sea. Despite the number of people and occasional dogs these large birds were not concerned. There were a number of people fishing and, while I did not see it, perhaps these pelicans hoped somebody would cast part of a fish their way. At one stage they walked closer to the point, a waddling type of walk, where their heads were back and their large beak rested on their neck, making them appear as if they were looking down their nose at the world.
Australian Pelican at the inlet mouth watching the anglers
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 234mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
A White-bellied Sea-eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) flew in from the ocean, although I did not see exactly where it came from, whether from a headland or out at sea. It was a juvenile and was not circling but flying reasonably straight to a point further up Merimbula Lake.
Just after the eagle flew over a seal swam along the inlet towards the sea, close to shore. I was hoping that it would continue on its course and near the surface but two power boats crossed the bar at about that time, which may have spooked the animal, because tt submerged and we did not see it again.
White-bellied Sea-eagle
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Also, on the beach I found a Sydney Cockle. Like the specimen in the upper part of Merimbula Lake this one had a sea weed growing from its shell. It was lying above where the retreating waves were falling with the tide. I supposed that once the plant started to grow there was not much the cockle could do to jettison it. Possibly, given the basic make-up of the bivalve, it may not have even been aware of the pant it was carrying around, or being carried around by the plant when the waves pushed against the seaweed’s fronds.
Sydney Cockle washed onto the beach
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 2000, 100mm, f/8.0 and 1/100 SEC])
Another interesting subject I saw was a long-abandoned shell that was now covered in dead Rose Barnacles (Tesseropora rosea). The fact that the barnacles were showing red attested to their age. Maybe the demise of the shell’s inhabitant robbed the barnacles of a stable base, with the shell being tossed by the waves and the barnacles unable to feed properly. A number greyish rosettes indicated the loss of barnacles probably attested to the shell being battered, with enough strength to knock the barnacles off.
Rose Barnacles attached to a long dead shell
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 500, 200mm, f/8.0 and 1/100 SEC])
The final habitat that we explored was the rocky shore that was found on the northern side of the estuary mouth, near the wharf. The rocks there were red, which in itself recorded a key moment in earth’s development. If I understood the geology properly, the rocks were mudstone built of sediment from late Devonian era rivers that flowed out of the supercontinent Gondwana, about 380-360 million years ago. The plants that sprouted during this period led to higher oxygen levels causing a rise in animal life. The increased oxygen levels also caused the iron in the river sediment to oxidise or rust, leading to the red colouration of the mudstone. I am no geologist but I wondered if the rock in the middle was a harder granite boulder that had washed down in the great river to be trapped for millions of years in the mudstone. That harder rock was only revealed when water gradually eroded away the softer mudstone but had less impact of the tough granite. While I can’t be certain that I had my geological facts correct I was left in awe that I could have been looking at a rock that formed long ago, to be washed down by a mighty river and nature was again revealing it. Kind of showed how transitory humans are on this planet.
Rock in Bubble weed rock pool
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 640, 100mm, f/11 and 1/125 SEC])
Not surprisingly there were the ubiquitous Silver Gulls (Chroicocephalus novaehollandiae) on the rocky shore. I liked how their white contrasted with the red in the rocks. The wind was blowing when we were on the rocks and I don’t think they wanted to fly into the wind but they were also worried by out presence.
Silver Gull
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 200, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Prowling around the rocks we came across this Short-spined Sea Urchin (Heliocidaris erythrogramma) that was out of the water. I was surprised to find out above the water’s surface but I figured that this urchin may had had been left by the falling tide. I was not sure if it was injured because it seemed to have a purple mass exuding from its underside. May be the urchin was going to head back into the water, although it may have been able to stay out of the water because it is a creature of the intertidal zone so should have some tolerance for surviving between tides.
Short-spined Sea Urchin
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 640, 100mm, f/11 and 1/125 SEC])
In another Rockpool, a Feather Duster Worm was stretched full out. I figured that the tide must cover this rock pool when it rises and thus provides new food for this worm to feed on. I won’t pretend to know what species it was but it was great to see a living specimen in the wild, I just wished I had a better means to photograph it rather than by shooting though the surface of the water.
Feather Duster Worm in a rock pool
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 640, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/125 SEC])
While exploring the rocks, I had to take some photographs of the waves. They were not large but I was impressed by the shapes and structures they made dynamically before they change in a moment never to be repeated. I am enraptured with waves and I hope that I can learn to take some good pictures of interesting waves at some stage.
Wave off the rocks
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1000, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/1000 SEC])
Eden
The furthest point south that we travelled to during our time on the south coast was around the fishing town of Eden. Approximately 2500 people live in Eden, the southernmost town in NSW. This was still an operating fishing harbour but was probably most famous for the whaling that used to occur there before a change in mindset and now whale watching was a major tourism drawcard. The history of the area was filled with controversy, including the activities of Benjamin Boyd who had many commercial interests but was also the person to first use ‘blackbirding’ in Australia. Without downplaying some of the history of the area it was an amazing place to visit because of the natural beauty with the rich red rocks, stunning blue water and the lush greenery. It was an area saturated with so much cooler that the photos took themselves, I just had to hold the camera steady.
Ben Boyd’s most obvious legacy was the never completed lighthouse, Boyd’s Tower, sitting on the very aptly named Red Point. Although he commenced building this lighthouse the finances ran out before its completion. The beauty of the area was really apparent when we could look back at the stunning red and rugged coast that appeared to just out into the blue ocean. Unfortunately there was remediation work occurring around the tower when we visited so I could not even approach the area at the base of the structure. However, I was mesmerised by the area that I was able to get to on the coast where the rocks were as red as any and the sea was shallow enough so that the azure sapphire liquid made me envious of people who can see that for real every day. I tried hard to restrain myself with the images below because I wanted to post so many. In the first vertical shot I liked how there were bands of colour. The blue of the water became the white of waves that blended into the red of rocks that led to the green of the vegetation. And they all had a different texture to them. Then focusing on one aspect, such as how the waves swirled around a jutting red rock also gave a completely different photographic form. I was so glad that we made the effort to get to the edge of the cliff along a still opened hiking trail even if we could not get to Boyd’s Tower.
Boyd’s Tower looking south along the red cliffs
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 100, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/640 SEC]
Contrasting colours at Red Point
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 100, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/640 SEC]
Swirling waters
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 200, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/1000 SEC]
The most fascinating attraction within Eden was the Eden Killer Whale Museum. This museum tells the story of the partnership that developed between a pod of wild Killer Whales and the local human whalers,. The orcas learnt that if they helped the humans hunt larger whales they would be rewarded with food as well. The whalers became so familiar with these sea mammals that they could identify them by their dorsal fins. The humans also observed how each whale had a distinct role in the hunt. Eventually, one of these Orcas died of apparent natural causes and his body washed ashore whereupon his skeleton was preserved and became the central exhibit within the museum. The museum ddi not seek to gloss over the bloody nature of the work but was able to educate about a time past and about a relationship between humans and animals that seemed to be a partnership, The museum did celebrate the passing of that time and tried to offer a fuller explanation for the natural history of the area, including the First Nations people who were originally there.
Killer Whale skeleton in the Eden Killer Whale Museum
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF16-35mm f/4L IS USM [ISO 3200, 20mm, f/10 and 1/50 SEC])
Wallagoot Gap
Leaving Merimbula on the third day, and having travelled not too far north from Merimbula we stopped at the stunningly beautiful Wallagoot Gap. There, over time the sea has worn a long, narrow gap though the sandstone cliff leading to a small beach nestled inside a steep-sided triangular bowl. The National Parks and Wildlife Service of NSW have emplaced sturdy wooden steps down to that scenic beach and also provided a platform at the top of the stairs to take in the scenery. The gap is located inside the Bournda National Park at the end of an unsealed, narrow road that is passable for two-wheel drive cars. When we visited the tide was up but at low tide, I understand, people can walk out to at least the first gap. Although the tide kept us confined to the beach at the bottom of the stairs we were so glad to have the opportunity to visit this enchanting natural feature..
Looking down on the colours of Wallagoot Gap
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 400, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/400 SEC]
Looking through the gap to the sea beyond
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF40mm f2.8 STM [ISO 125, 40mm, f/14 and 1/80 SEC])
Bermagui
Continuing north, we had a brief lunchtime stop of a couple of hours at the small port of Bermagui, which sits at the river mouth of the Bermagui River. For a town with only a population of 1500 it has been featured in films and books. In some respects it was actually surprising that more films have not been shot around the beautiful scenery of the south coast, We did not stay long in Bermagui this time because we had more travelling to do but we did have a good walk around to look at things.
The only bird that I was able to photograph was a Little Pied Cormorant that had occupied a lone buoy sitting unused in the marina. The cormorant seemed contented there, despite people walking past not far away or even people sitting on a nearby bench and looking at it. The sun was on the wrong side of the cormorant for a good photograph, with most of the bird being in shade and I was shooting from a high angle.
Little Pied Cormorant in the harbour
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 160, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
We also went to see Bermagui’s Blue Pool, a naturally large rock pool that in the 1930s was improved to become a larger swimming pool. I wanted to use my drone to photograph it but because there were a number of people around I couldn’t under drone flying regulations. I was, however, able to launch the drone from the rocks to photograph some Australian Fur Seals (Arctocephalus pusillus doriferus) that were swimming just off shore. It was really nice to see these creatures just off the rocks. They were mainly just drifting with the waves, not doing much but some were swimming in the water.
Australian Fur Seals swimming in the water off Bermagui
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 200, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/400 SEC]
The rocks near the blue pool were receiving white topped waves rolling in from the sea. The waves were not large but I did like how the white straps of water drained from the dark cracks of the rocks.
Waves on the rocks at Bermagui
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 112mm, f/13 and 1/1000 SEC])
Just north of Bermagui was the largest lake in southern NSW, Wallaga Lake, an intermittently closed and open lake. The road heading north from Bermagui crossed the lake via a bridge that continued across the small Payne’s Island before joining at the far bank. The lake appeared shallow and a wind was whipping across it when we arrived.
Panorama of Wallaga Lake seen from Payne’s Island
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 100, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/400 SEC] three shot panorama
Not far off Payne’s Island two Australian Pelicans were swimming on the lake. In the image below, the left one could have been a juvenile given that its feathers were not completely black. They noticed us on the island and slowly, but definitely, put some space between them and us.
Australian Pelicans
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 160, 400mm, f/10 and 1/400 SEC])
Further out, on a very shallow area of the lake, a pair of Australian White Ibis (Threskiornis molucca) were wading through the water looking for food.
Australian White Ibis wading in the lake
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 160, 400mm, f/10 and 1/400 SEC])
Across on the south-eastern side of the lake I could see three Royal Spoonbills (Platalea regia) wading in the water. I have been looking for this bird for so long and yet now they were too far away for a decent photograph. After a little while they flew to the shallow water where the ibis were but did not disturb them. The spoonbills just started wading through the water. I remember seeing this species of birds as a child on holidays in the Shoalhaven region. We always saw them so I always figured that they must be everywhere but now, many decades later, it seems to be much harder to find them. Their conservation status is secure in NSW but maybe it is just a matter of habitat destruction over that intervening period of time that has reduced their range but within it they maintain a healthy sized population.
Royal Spoonbill
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 125, 400mm, f/9.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Narooma
Our final destination for the trip was Narooma, where we spent a night, Narooma is a town of about 3000 people that lies about 350 kn south of Sydney. It sits at the mouth of the Wagonga Inlet, which has been modified to ensure that a boating channel always has enough water for vessels to sail along it. Beyond that channel the inlet is very shallow, with large sand flats visible at low tide.
We arrived in Narooma in the mid-afternoon on a day when the clouds were starting to build. We quickly checked into our hotel so that we could go for a walk. We explored the southern part of Narooma that faced the sea, eventually finding ourselves on a beach that looked more English than Australian with its small rocks covering some sand. The cliffs, with their overgrown vegetation drooping down them added to the colour of the scene. I ended up taking a panorama of the lovely area with thick clouds hinting at the red of a sunset colour but not providing a canvas as on other occasions. Still, it was nice to be there and to experience the quiet beauty of the dusk at the base of those cliffs.
Sea cliffs at Narooma in the afternoon light
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF40mm f2.8 STM [ISO 1000, 40mm, f/14 and 1/50 SEC] three shot panorama)
At the start of that afternoon’s walk we had rambled over the rocks that characterised that part of Narooma, The most famous rock we saw was Australia Rock. So named because erosion has worn away a shape that looks a bit like Australia. At least somebody realised that it would be a good way to attract tourists.
Walking further over the rocks we also found a small arch, which could be lined up to look at the distant Montague Island/Barunguba.
Australia Rock
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF40mm f2.8 STM [ISO 320, 40mm, f/11 and 1/100 SEC])
A rock arch with Montague Island in the distance
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1600, 400mm, f/22 and 1/125 SEC])
Up until this point in the trip we had hardly seen any crabs, just dead ones but we found a Red Rock Crab (Plagusia chabrus) within minutes of starting to look in rock pools. It was a reasonably large one and was just below the surface in a rock pool. There was not much light but I thought that it was worth trying to take at least one shot.
We also saw other crabs scurry quickly away from us, and generally noticed more fish life around Narooma as well but we were not sure why.
Red Rock Crab in a rock pool
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 2500, 182mm, f/8.0 and 1/250 SEC])
An interesting creature that we found in one rock pool was a Sea Hare (Dolabrifera brazieri). It was very well camouflaged and I have slightly lightened it in the picture below to make it more obvious. Its body was still while we look at it but its head was going slowly from one side to the other. It has two sets of antennas, which can both detect chemicals in the water and the front set can also be used to feel things ahead of the animal,
Sea Hare in a rock pool
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1600, 400mm, f/10 and 1/125 SEC])
One reason that we were spending a night in Narooma was that we wanted to see the Australian Fur Seals on the breakwater again. This time though, we made sure that we were on the southern breakwater, so as to be close to them. There were signs warning people to keep 40 metres from the seals but given where they are on the side of the breakwater it was impossible to be that distance from them. Although there was good advice not to be between the seal and the water, and to keep extra far from pups. The seals for their part seemed to be accustomed to people looking down at them from the breakwater. I leant out to get a better angle on a photo of one seal and did not notice that there was another seal almost directly below me. The steal was hardly stunned by my sudden appearance, it looked at me, yawned and went back to sleep. The breakwater was difficult to climb down and I think that will remain the best way to separate humans from seals. I am sure that somebody will try to climb down it at some stage but a nip from a startled seal will show then they were wrong to do so. The yawning seal below shows that these animals have some decent sized canine teeth that could do some damage to a foolish human.
The seals did not seem perturbed by the presence of humans, Most of the time the seals were happy to sleep. I photographed one who was scratching itself but it looked like it was hardly awake.
My favourite shot was other sleeping seal curled around in a closed circle. To me its face seemed to have a hint of a smile, maybe from dreams of fish-laden seas where the food was slow and delicious.
I also liked the two seals that were swimming with their muzzles touching, almost like they were kissing. They did this for a while. It was touching to see, although I am sure that I am anthropomorphising my human romantic notions on to some other form of behaviour. Still, they looked contented.
Australian Fur Seal yawning
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1000, 105mm, f/13 and 1/125 SEC])
Fur Seal scratching itself
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1000, 158mm, f/9.0 and 1/320 SEC])
Fur Seal having a sleep
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1000, 300mm, f/6.3 and 1/100 SEC])
Two Fur Seals swimming
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 3200, 241mm, f/7.1 and 1/500 SEC])
Once again, a Little Pied Cormorant was there. The bird was swimming in the water not far from the seals. This shot was taken on an overcast morning but I did like how the flat light gsve a different feel to the scene.
Little Pied Cormorant swimming
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1000, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
On the northern side of the Wagonga Inlet, just to the west of the road bridge there was a small island. I crossed over there one morning to see what I could find and saw two Black Swans (Cygnus atratus) preening themselves on the inlet side of the island. There presence in that saltwater habitat underlined their flexibility in being able to live in both fresh and salt water environments.
Black Swan
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
On the side of the island closet to land the water was shallow that morning with the tide mainly out. Several Little Egrets were wading through the area looking for food. Their white plumage standing out against the dark background.
Little Egret
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Later we went across to North Narooma to follow the Mill Bay Boardwalk along the northern side of Wagonga Inlet. This boardwalk was more substantial than the one in Merimbula and links into a pedestrian and bike path that goes from Narooma up to Dalmeny, about 10 km away. We just wanted to do the boardwalk along the inlet and despite the weather saw a lot of marine life in the water, more than we had seen in Merimbula or Bermagui. The windy weather and the lack of good light meant it was not worth trying to photograph the fish and other things that we saw.
One of the birds that we saw under the grey skies was a Pied Oystercatcher (Haematopus longirostris), which was on a wharf beside the boardwalk, looking like it was waiting for the tide to ebb so that it could return to looking for food. Its bright red beak was a welcome dash of colour on a day when the weather was starting to turn against us.
Pied Oystercatcher on a wharf, waiting for the tide to ebb
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 640, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
A juvenile White-bellied Sea-eagle was flying circles above Wagonga Inlet but I did not see it dive at a fish, nor try to grab food from another bird. It simply circled high over the inlet, sometimes moving out of sight when it flew further north.
White-bellied Sea-eagle circling over Narooma
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 250, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Some Australian Pelicans were doing much better. They had found an amateur angler at the boat ramp who had returned with a catch and were enjoying the cast-offs he was throwing while he cleaned his catch. An additional pelican was trying to land in the small area where the boat ramp was located, behind part of the breakwater, but the presence of the initial group of pelicans must have made it hard to land. Instead the bird seemed to hover in mid-air, its large wings outstretched, adjusting as needed against the wind that was blowing across the inlet. It was a skilled, slow flying display from a bird that was more renowned for using thermals to sore high in the sky for long distances.
Australian Pelican in flight
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 250, 135mm, f/8.0 and 1/500 SEC])
Despite the onset of gloomy weather and some light precipitation I was mesmerised by the waves I could see on the north side of the northern breakwater. The colour in the water under the flat light was sometimes a sapphire green and the waves were constantly assaulted by wind pulling at their tops, turning the water into small spots of foam that were tossed back seawards while the rest of the wave raced to the sand just in front.
There was such beauty in the forms those waves took and they were all unique. I was sorry when a shot of an interesting wave shape did not turn out because I knew that shape was lost forever, never to be repeated by another wave. Despite the weather, I wanted to stay but we had other places to be.
It was lovely to spend four days on the south coast of NSW and for most of the time the weather held for us. The skies were generally blue and we saw such stunning scenery. It was also nice to have the time to enjoy what we saw rather than feel rushed to return to home like so often happens when I can only visit for day. The south coast was a beautiful place to visit, even in winter and we thoroughly enjoyed our bit of coastal therapy with the amazing wildlife and unique scenery.
Thanks for reading this post and thanks also for looking at my photos. I hope you come back again to read more about some of the wonderful natural things that the south coast of New South Wales has on offer. All the best until the next post.