Overcast skies hung threateningly overhead on the day in January 2022 when I went to Tuross Head. Rain was threatening most of the time and a strong wind blew up later in the paddle. However, none of that mattered because it was just such a wonderful time paddling around the shallow waters there with the beautiful birdlife and other animals. A kayak was the ideal means to see the region because I could paddle up shallow creeks and easily move between sand bars. The wildlife was captivating, from the Eastern Curlew that I saw even before I put my kayak in the water to the Semaphore Crabs that blanketed the mudflats up the Tuross River. And once I saw the Australian Pelicans I was in my element. I had a great time photographing those big water birds that can look so clumsy walking but are masters of using the wind to manoeuvre in the air. Later, after the kayak, I was in a suitably elevated position to photograph some of those magnificent, large water birds as they came in low to land on the estuary surface around the boat ramp. I had a marvellous morning despite the overcast conditions and I hope that you enjoy the photographs below.
Tuross Head is a quiet seaside township of about 2000 people positioned on the south coast of New South Wales. The head is a peninsula with Coila Lake to the north and Tuross River to the south. Coila Lake is intermittently closed to the might of the Pacific Ocean, as it was at the time of my visit, while the Tuross Lake is the estuary of the 150km long Tuross River. Tuross Head is often overshadowed by other south coast destinations, being a sleepy little town with a small collection of shops, and some riverside cafes and restaurants that provide a relaxing backdrop for enjoying simple meals. However, a number of people, especially from Canberra have discovered this little gem so summer holidays are busy. The area acknowledges its sleepy nature and indeed promotes it as a place for families and retirees to enjoy a quiet, safe coastal environment.
Tuross Lake, the estuary of the Tuross River, widens out at Tuross Head where sand bars have made the watery region very shallow. The river carves around the sand bars digging deeper channels between them, with often strong currents pushing the water through those corridors of deeper water out to the sea. Some of the sand bars have become permanent with vegetation growing on them, stabilising their shifting sands against the effects of the moving water.
On the day that I visited the clouds were thick and grey and the seas were being stirred up by a tropical cyclone way to the north in Queensland. The waves were not large but constant as they hit the sand bar that was partially forming across the river mouth, extending from the large beak to the south. Somewhat strangely for a summer January there was also a fog laying over the lake the morning I visited. The fog was reasonably thick when I arrived but started lifted by the time I was ready to paddle.
There was a boat ramp at Lavender Point but rather than use that facility for launching, there was a large, flat, shallow sandy area to the west that was quieter and would allow me to prepare my kayak before I launched it. This sandy beach was accessible by the same road that ran from the boat ramp, which then joined up again with Nelson Parade at the parking area and public toilets near the riverside cafes. The launch spot, with ample parking, was a great spot for preparing the kayak and, despite being school holidays with the boat ramp busy as one thing, I was the only person at that time getting ready to kayak. There was a sand bar immediately adjacent to the launch spot but even when the tide was lower I could still paddle along it, as well as walk across it to the sand bar for some pre-paddling photography.
After parking my car, I was out having a look at the launch spot and wider lake when I saw the curved beak profile of an Eastern Curlew (Numenius madagascariensis) searching for food on the sand bar across from the launch spot. Fortuneltaty, the water was shallow enough to walk across so I grabbed my camera and tried to walk nonchalantly across the narrow body of water to the sand bar. The curlew was alert to my presence, gradually moving to the other side of the sand bar from me. I didn’t want to scare the bird so I stayed at the water’s edge, leaving the bird to wander around, occasionally stabbing its beak into the wet sand. These birds are justifiably famous for their amazing migration. They breed mid-year in the northern hemisphere during the warmer months there before they fly to Australia in the northern autumn. Covering vast distances across the ocean and making use of wetlands along coasts in various countries to feed and build energy. Unfortunately, ornithologists are justifiably concerned that development and economic pressure is destroying the bird’s natural habitat, preventing them feeding and having energy to complete their migration. While some authorities talk about alternate habitats being available or plan to develop them, for migratory birds that are flying long distances where they are reliant on stored energy often they are too weak after their flight to head to a different area. The birds need energy at that crucial first landfall. And, they may not be aware of a different habitat, even if to a human mind that alternate feeding location was not far from the primary location. That is just one reason why the conservation of wetlands, including Ramsar designated wetlands, are so important. Most people would understand that this is not just about preserving one bird species because if that species becomes extinct, there is little understanding about how the complex ecosystem will change and what follow-on effects will be initiated as a result.
On the same small sandbar a lone Pied Oystercatcher (Haematopus longirostris) was resting. It had its beak folded back over its back among its black feathers. A half-opened eye regarded me but it did not stir beyond that. I liked how it seemed poised on the empty sand with just a bit of old seaweed in front of it. The dull light of the overcast morning seemed to be the perfect conditions for it.
As I mentioned above there were a number of sandbars in the estuary. Some were just small curves of sand, barely exposed under the lapping water while others had vegetation sprouting from them. There was at least one substantial, sand-only bar that was a distance from the boat ramp. A number of seabirds were resting on this sand island. The Australian Pelicans were the most obvious birds because of their large, white bulk but there were Great Cormorants, Silver Gulls and a number of different species of terns. It was nice to paddle around these little bits of land observing and photographing the birdlife. Sometimes I would inadvertently disturb some sand dwelling fish under me that would dart away through a cloud of disturb sand and occasionally audibly bumped my kayak, alerting me that something had just fled. It was also clear to see how the Grey Mangroves (Avicennia marina) were starting to colonise these bits of semi-aquatic land. The mangroves would grow and produce more mangroves, further stabilising and extending these patches, altering the flow of the river to the sea.
There was a large sandbar that was well colonised by plants. Potentially those plants had continued to trap blowing sand leading to the island starting to develop a low but noticeable hump along its length. This island was probably being used by birds as a nesting location and a sign warned that dogs were not permitted on the island. Uncontrolled dogs will scare nesting birds, seeing them as something to chase. While domesticated and feral cats are infamous for the number of native animals they kill annually, dogs are also a threat to native animals. Even a dog that does not devour native birds can still unknowingly trample on precious eggs as it runs across a nesting area. Those eggs do not just represent a breeding process but also an expense of energy by the birds. Nature is about balancing energy. How much energy the animal can obtain in order to meet its requirements. Humans are lucky in that we can readily purchase food at shops and supermarkets. Our domestic pets are also lucky because we provide them with an energy source. However, wild animals need to gather their energy themselves and, of course, they also need energy to do that. So, dogs destroying eggs represent wasted energy that some small birds cannot spare as they have to compete for food stocks that may already be degraded by other human activities. Ecosystems are fragile because their components and elements can be impacted by a number of small changes that barely register with us but ripple through the system, potentially compounding, or being compounded by other stressors in the system.
South Tuross Beach also has an area that is marked for birds only, asking people to give it a distance. The footprints in the sand showed that most people were doing the right thing, with only a few foot steps indicating a disregard for a simple request. I have included the detail of some of the signs below as examples of how the authorities are trying to do the right thing to assist nesting birds.
Crested Terns (Thalasseus bergii) were the most common terns on the large sand bar and these three caught my attention. Initially, it was the juvenile on the right and the adult in the middle. The juvenile was calling and lowering itself in a behaviour I suspected was aimed to gain food from its parent. However, the adult remained fixed in place, not responding. A second adult, on the left arrived and the juvenile went to it but returned quickly to the original adult. At no time did either adult bird supply food to the juvenile so I was not sure what was actually happening. Still it was an interesting interaction to watch. Breeding pairs last throughout the year and possibly across successive breeding seasons. This species breeds in colonies and is happy to breed among other seabirds.
While noticing the Crested Terns, not far away, closer to the water, I could see two terns that were noticeably smaller but beyond that, identical to the Crested Terns. These smaller birds were Lesser Crested Terns (Thalasseus bengalensis). Another indication was that their wing tips, when folded were roughly the same length as the tail feathers, where as the Crested Terns’ folded wingtips extend past the tail feathers. The two that I was looking at flew from the large sandbar across a short hop of water to the South Tuross Beach where they landed outside the marked-off nesting area. I carefully paddled across to that beach where I noticed there were a number of similarly sized birds. By way of background, this bird in the photograph was carrying that fish around for a while. The tern had landed on the sand with the fish in its beak and was almost trying to present it to another Lesser Crested Tern but my presence disturbed them and they both took off, circled around me and landed a short distance away, all the time with the bird holding the fish. I did not know if they were trying to feed young so I left the area rather than continue to disturb them.
Another species of tern that I saw on the large sand bar was Common Tern (Sterna hirundo). I saw at least two of these birds. Their solid black beaks made them standout against the more colourful beaks of the other terns. This tern is common in the northern hemisphere but not so much in Australia where it is a non-breeding visitor. It is amazing to see these small birds and think about the journey that they have undertaken to travel to Australia.
Across many of the shallow parts of the lake, away from where people were most prevalent, Bar-tailed Godwits (Limosa lapponica) were wading through the calm, shallow water near the sand bars. They would push their long, slender beaks into the water and draw them out again but their catches were too small to see. These birds have wonderfully coloured plumage that helps them blend in against the sand but their pink beak seems at odds with that attempt at blending in. As an aside, these birds are amazing example of migrating seabirds. They breed in Northern Europe and other far northerly areas of the northern hemisphere and visit Australia and the Southern Hemisphere during the northern winter. Researchers recorded one of these birds flying 11 000km in just 8 days to travel from Alaska to New Zealand. However, as I mentioned above, the birds lose about half their body weight on these journeys and are dependent on suitable feeding grounds when they arrive in Australia. What an amazing bird and here they were wandering nonchalantly through the shallows at Tuross Head.
There were a number of Red-capped Plovers (Charadrius ruficapillus) on the sand bars but they were not interested in me getting close enough to them to take some photographs. This particular one was by itself and although initially scared, it did not mind if I kept a reasonable distance. It would make quick dashes across the sand and mud before stopping to investigate the chance of food. These are very common beach nesting birds and they can be seen foraging on exposed sand and mud in small groups.
Definitely not a wader or a water bird but there were a number of Welcome Swallows (Hirundo neoxena) apparently flying out of the low scrub that ran along the length of the South Tuross Beach. Occasionally, they would land on a tree branch to pause before they commenced their rapid, low circular sweeps over the water. The area did not look suitable for nesting with no walls for building nests but maybe these birds were merely looking for food. On that day, it was just mesmerising seeing their high-speed passes and changes of direction like a wild aerobatic display. It was easy for these birds, with their reflecting blue coat and amazing flying to distract me but I needed to keep paddling. So I turned my kayak upstream to paddle against the river’s flow past a number of small boats filled with keen amateur anglers dipping their lines over the side to head to a different habitat along the river.
Heading north-westerly along Tuross Lake I found one of the fingers of the Tuross River that flowed around the larger islands up-stream from the mouth of the river. The entrance was very shallow and it took a few goes to find a way in that was deep enough to paddle through. Once I was in the smaller river it remained shallow but the gentle current had cut a slightly deeper channel where paddling was generally easier. I followed several bends to make my way along the river around Horse Island. Parts of the river had oyster leases in it, which was reassuring because it showed there was enough natural replacement of the water in the estuary to keep these bivalves supplied with food that they filtered out of the current.
Coming around one bend a stern Striated Heron (Butorides striata) was intent on hunting for its food. It barely registered my presence, allowing me to let the kayak drift closer to it. The bird was all business, with its beak horizontal and eyes fixed forwarded. It moved its lager feet with purpose across the mud but not too fast. The brown plumage of the bird helped it blend in against the background of the mud. There was something about this bird where its stumpy, block-like body and dull colouring seemed to work to make it a wonderful looking bird. that seemed to have evolved perfectly for gathering food in that environment. This is the habitat that it is at home in, where its sharp, powerful beak can dart into the mud to extract an animal rapidly trying to crawl down the safety of a hole.
Pied Oystercatchers were also present on these mudflats up the river. Some of these black and white birds were still moving with purpose, hunting animals in the mud while the one in the picture seemed more intent on preening itself.
There was also a White-faced Heron (Egretta novaehollandiae) hunting in the shadows under mangrove trees growing in a large bend in the river where the white of the bird’s face stood out like a beacon in the dark. The heron was using its long, yellow legs to advantage by moving though the pneumatophore roots of the Grey Mangroves. The stilt-like legs allowed it to carry its body above the vertically protruding growths while its eyes searched for food. Occasionally, its grey, pointed beak would puncture the mud or water, bringing some small creature out.
Paddling a along the river, where it straightened out a little I saw a male Chestnut Teal (Anas castanea) walking along the slippery, muddy bank. He was a little worried about my presence and kept moving away from me along the bank. After doing that for a little while he was joined by two others who appeared from under some low-hanging mangrove branches and all three of them dipped straight into the water where they swam three abreast. The male was in the centre and the female to the left. I guessed that the other one was probably a juvenile male because there were hints of the distinctive male green head colour starting to appear.
From the moment that I entered the actual Tuross River I noticed how often the muddy, exposed banks seemed to move with what appeared to be clumps of mud speeding away from the water’s edge. Looking thought my zoom lens I realised the clumps of mud were actually scores of Semaphore Crabs (Heloecius cordiformis) distancing themselves from me, a potential predator. With their backs turned, their colourful claws were hidden behind their dark carapace, which was pointing towards me, the same colour as the mudbank. The crabs were all sizes with younger crabs having orange claws and adults purple ones. There were also a number of burrows further away from the water where individuals would quickly scurry down. Later in the paddle, when I stopped to have a snack and existed from my kayak, I again sent a mudbank full of crabs fleeing. However, after I sat down and stopped moving, the crabs started to return cautiously, not to the area around me but they started to slowly wander across the mud, some even having their backs towards me, although I suspect that they knew where I was. I was happy to get a picture of an adult with its rich, purple claws. Although it was an adult, It was not very big, about 5cm with its legs spread. These crabs get their common name from the behaviour of waving their claws about, which may be a warning to other crabs about territory, mating, etc.
Another species of crab I saw was the Red-fingered Marsh Crab (Parasesarma erythodactylum), although these were manly on the muddy slopes that were formed by the erosion of a bank. The mud dropped from the top, leaving a slope upwards from water to meet the upper, over-hanging part of the bank, sometimes with suspended roots dangling from the muddy, exposed ceiling above. I generally saw these crabs alone but they were less apt to flee when they saw me. I could approach them a little closer. These are scavengers and will eat both plant and animal matter.
This pleasant, unhurried trip was taking me along the quiet waters of the Tuross River around Horse Island, which was the largest island in the lake and the only one with habitation. The river passed under a small, hardwood private bridge that led to the island. This was where I decided to stop for a leg stretch and snack because there was a public dirt boat ramp there that made it easy to exit the kayak.
While I was there I looked over the bridge but did not cross it because it headed to the privately owned Horse Island. Still, I did like the bridge as a photographic subject. Horse Island would also be a remarkable place to visit as this article outlined. Christina Kennedy and her husband, Trevor, own this beautifully designed garden island. Christina is a descendant of the pioneering Australian businessman and industrialist, Thomas Sutcliffe Mort, who had been the major landowner of this region, including not just the island but also Tuross Head, Bodalla and much of land around the district. He later sold the land off but many decades later the Kennedys had an opportunity to purchase Horse Island. Christina eventually set about designing and building a magnificent garden, stunning photos of which can be seen in the linked article. The garden used mainly Australian natives, including remnant local species, and if it is ever open to the public I would love to visit. In the 1990s the Kennedys also imported a mob of Emus, which are extinct locally, from Western Australia to roam their garden. Unfortunately, the Emus discovered how shallow the Tuross River was and how easy it was to wade across. So many broke free of the island sanctuary started to recolonise the area. I am disappointed that I didn’t get to see one wading in the river, that would have been a glorious photograph.
While I was photographing the bridge, I noticed a juvenile Australian Water Dragon (Intellagama lesueurii) on the end of bridge away from the island. It was just resting on the wood, probably not the best place for it given some of the large birdlife around. It was happy for me to get reasonably close. It was mainly looking at a Casuarina Tree in front of it as well as the rocks below, although I did notice that in some of my photos, its head had not moved but its eyeball had swung around to look at me. After a while the dragon disappeared down to the rocks, perhaps in pursuit of what it had been looking at.
I continued around Horse Island, taking one detour down a small creek, before I found myself back in the main channel of the Tuross River. The wind had picked up while I was around Horse Island and was blowing in from the coast giving me a strong headwind to paddle into on my return trip. I was able to get some respite when I ducked in behind where the riverside cafes were, which was not far from the end of the paddle.
My trip finished where it had started at the convenient little, sandy beach but the tide was lower now, so that I had to push the kayak into the small bit of water where I had launched from. Once I was over that initial bar I could paddle again but with centimetres of free draft beneath the keel of the kayak. I am not sure if I actually decided where to stop or if I just ran out of deep enough water but either way I knew that the enjoyable paddle was over.
It was an easy few walks along the flat sand from the kayak to the car to carry all my gear. After sorting out my kayak and strapping it to the carI headed up to the public toilets to wash off the sand from my feet and get changed. It was only when I went for a later walk to the boat ramp did I notice the shower and tap just a few metres from my car that I could have used to have a better wash-off before getting changed. I now knew for the next time.
While I was unloading the kayak on the small beach two Silver Gulls (Chroicocephalus novaehollandiae) were in the shallow water beside me. While these are very common birds I do like the red of their beak and eye ring against their pure white plumage. Even with the dull, storm cloud covered light I had to keep lowering the exposure triangle to stop the highlights on the image blowing out.
Just after packing my things in the car and as I was about to grab my kayak I noticed the unmistakable form of a White-bellied Sea-eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) circling high above. The bird was too high to get a decent photograph and its circling quickly took it behind some tall trees near me that blocked my line of sight to this amazing raptor. Sorry the image is not great but I am always happy when I see these apex predators out and about, acting as a key component in the ecosystem.
Fishing was a popular past time on the day that I visited. Small boats lined the main channel of water in Tuross Lake and people were walking far out on sand bars to where they could cast baited hooks into deeper water. Those people using boats were returning to the boat ramp not far from where I where I was unloading the kayak. Many were cleaning their catch on the council provided fish washing station at the boat ramp. The cleaning of the fish attracted a number of Australian Pelicans that presented a great opportunity for photographing them after I had finished my packing.
There were around ten Australian Pelicans (Pelecanus conspicillatus) swimming patiently around the boat ramp area. They were mainly avoiding the actual concrete boat ramp, but were waiting around the little wharf where the cleaning station was. The birds were peaceful, not clashing or snapping at each other, although it was clear that some birds were higher up the pecking order than others. Not all the birds would charge at the scraps thrown to them, some would wait. At one stage, one pelican came gracefully flying in, skilfully and slowly spiralling down onto the water making full use of the prevailing wind to give it lift the length of its descent. Because I was standing at the top of the boat ramp I was able to catch it in flight, slowed by the head wind. That photo is at the top of the post. I was also able to photograph it when it landed along the water surface, wings out, its momentum slowing until it sunk into a swimming position, wings still slightly out folded. Only when it was stable on the water did it close its large wings onto its body. This sizeable bird, so ungainly when it walked was so skilful in flying and landing in such a small area, it was a glorious thing to watch. Its arrival did not lead to bickering and it seemed to integrate into whatever agreed order already existed.
With the pelicans so close by, I took the opportunity to try some head portraits. I really loved the detail in their head and the colouration of the massive bill, from the almost faded salmon pink, though a kind of blue wash along the beak that became darker towards the hooked yellow point. Until I started photography I had never appreciated the colour they had on their beaks, a lovely mash-up of hues that are are subtle but a beautiful combination.
After spending a bit of time photographing pelicans I knew that I should get driving because I had over two and half hours of travel in order to get home to Canberra and the clouds were becoming darker. I reluctantly left Tuross Head, it had been such a wonderful visit and I wanted to return one day when the weather was nice.
Driving to Canberra, I had already decided that I wanted to stop to photograph my favourite tree that was growing beside the Kings Highway just outside of Braidwood. Not far from Braidwood I was very worried because the rain had started to bucket down. There were waves of water hitting my windscreen, while my wipers flew backwards and forwards in an attempt to allow me to see the road ahead. I was thinking about how I could keep the camera dry but still get the picture that I wanted. However, when I approached the actual area the rain lessened then stop completely. Upon leaving the car with my camera in hand, the clouds slightly opened, allowing the sun to light the front of the tree while the dark, brooding clouds provided a subdued background. Last time, I had captured the tree without foliage, looking dead but this time the tree was alive, indeed vibrantly alive. The greenish-yellow contrasting brightly against the dark, distant anger of the storm clouds. I took a number of shots to ensue I got the one I wanted. I found it hard to leave that spot because I felt that the opportunity to photograph this lovely tree in some stunning conditions may never come again.
The day had been another fantastic trip to the New South Wales south coast and I was able to photograph in a beautiful estuary. While the weather had meant that the light was not always the best I had thoroughly enjoyed myself and seen some beautiful and interesting wildlife. I will certainly return to Tuross Head, it was picturesque and provided a great habitat for some wonderful creatures. I had taken not just photos that day but also great memories; such as the large pelicans and also getting closer to a Striated Heron than I have every achieved. But I also appreciated sitting quietly, watching the Semaphore Crabs return to their lives.
Thanks for reading this post and thanks also for looking at my photos. I hope you come back again to read more about some of the wonderful natural things that the south coast of New South Wales has on offer. All the best until the next post.