I had felt that my paddle along the Clyde River in November had not been the best choice for photography and that the area must have had more to offer. The night that I returned from that trip I looked at Google Maps to see where else I could paddle in that area that may have better photographic opportunities. My searching led me to consider the small, tidal Cyne Mallowes Creek that was not far north of the put-in location that I used. A little bit of internet searching showed that this creek may be a good choice for taking some interesting shots. So with some free time in early January 2021 I decided to head down to Nelligen again to try my luck up that creek. I am very glad that I did because I had a wonderful experience. I saw my first Striated Heron and I even switched to a macro lens to capture some of the interesting subjects that I found where the creek got shallow near its end. I also enjoyed drifting along with the current photographing crabs among the mangroves. I hope that you like the photographs below.
Screen shot of my actual route
Nelligen is just under two hours drive east from Canberra so I left home very early to ensure that I could complete as much of the trip before the forecasted strong winds arrived later in the day. I pulled into the parking area by the Clyde River around 7:30 in the morning and was on the water about 30 minutes later. The sky was heavily overcast so I knew that I would be shooting with a high ISO but at least the water was not rough.
The weather wasn’t promising but at least the forecasted wind had not arrived
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 20, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/950 SEC])
Before setting off from the Nelligen boat ramp area I took a test shot of what appeared to be an abandoned boat on the far bank. I only intended to work out my camera settings before I started for the day but I thought that I would upload the picture here as an indication of what the far bank looked like.
After taking that quick shot, I pushed the kayak off the small bit of sand it was on beside the boat ramp and my kayak seemed to enjoy being back in the Clyde River.
The test shot of the abandoned boat on the boat ramp
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1250, 349mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Paddling north up the Clyde River I could see that there was a slight current agains me in the water, that was reassuring since I hoped that it would help mitigate the effects of the forecasted strong winds that I would paddle into as I made my way back to the launch spot. There was also less power boat activity on the Clyde River this time because it was a weekday.
I arrived quickly at entrance to Cyne Mallowes Creek where I turned my kayak east to start paddling up the creek. Initially the creek was almost as wide as the Clyde River but its twists and turns were tighter, making the creek narrow quickly. This was an enjoyable paddle because I could easily see the banks where I was likely to detect potential photographic subjects. The shallow water also meant that no power boats ventured up the creek the whole time that I was paddling along it.
The first birds that I was able to photograph were a pair of Pacific Black Ducks (Anas superciliosa). They were very skittish, flying off from the water well before I got as near as I could get to the same species on Lake Burley Griffin. I am always worried when I see birds acting as scared as that because I wonder what has happened between them and humans to make them so fearful. I was able to get some shots of the birds as they swam in front of the mangroves. Seeing them here on this tidal, salty creek highlighted how versatile these ducks are in adapting to a wide variety of habitats. They mainly eat aquatic plants but will also eat small creatures, of which the mangroves have plenty.
Pacific Black Duck swimming in the mangroves
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1600, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
Cyne Mallowes Creek was mainly calm, with the occasional gust of wind to ripple its surface. It was also very shallow and at times I could really feel the drag on the bottom of the kayak as I passed over a particularly shallow area. Weather-wise, the sky was still ominously overcast as I paddled up the creek. I thought that my presence was surprising to some animal inhabitants with the odd fish jumping out of the water, possibly fearing that I was a large predator.
Along the way, I took a small detour to paddle around some mangrove clumps that had enough water between them to allow me to do so. There was no reason to my diversion, it was just interesting to be able to glide around these trees that are a key component of the coastal ecosystem.
Paddling along Cyne Mallowes Creek, with a fish leaping out of the way
(GoPro HERO8 Black Screen capture)
Paddling between clumps of mangroves, note the overcast sky
(GoPro HERO8 Black Screen capture)
I was also distracted when I noticed a small creek cutting up in to the mangroves. The small mangrove trees provided a leaf tunnel over the creek that was deep enough to take my kayak but some branches obstructed the way. I could also see that a turn further along would have been hard to hegoritate in my 5 meter long kayak so I did not head far up this hidden inlet. Still, it was an enchanting spot to admire the mangroves from. I took a couple of photos to show this interesting spot.
The small creek off the main Cyne Mallowes Creek
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 40, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/15 SEC])
Looking further up the creek to the bend
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1600, 100mm, f/8.0 and 1/180 SEC])
Now is probably a good time to look at what mangroves and mangrove forests are because they are an important habitat that is also an important ecosystem. The two species of mangrove plants found along the creek are the River Mangrove (Aegiceras corniculatum) and the Grey Mangrove (Avicennia marina). The Grey Mangrove is readily identifiable because of the spike-like aerial route system (pneumatophores) that surrounds the trees. Both plants can grow to become trees or if the conditions are not suitable they will remain as shrubs.
By way of context, about 18% of Australia’s coastline is composed of mangrove forests. They are a unique habitat because they are submerged in saltwater for part of the day and exposed for the rest of the time. They exist along tidal areas but may also front the sea, where they become strong barriers to waves eroding the coastline. Given the conditions that they live in it is an amazing success of evolution that these terrestrial plants have adapted to live in a high salt environment allowing them to thrive where other plants, either terrestrial or marine, would die.
They also form a critical ecosystem that is part of the larger coastal and marine ecosystem. Each year mangroves create approximately one kilogram of detritus for each square metre. This plant litter is then broken down by crabs, fungus and bacteria as well as some molluscs, allowing the nutrients to flow into the food chain. Crabs are also important because their burrowing to make their homes helps turn over the nutrient rich mud. The presence of crabs directly contributes to the health of the mangroves and in turn the health of the mangroves supports the crabs and other marine animals. The roots and trunks of the trees become places for oysters and barnacles to attach themselves. As the tide rises, small marine creatures, including juvenile fish are able to move reasonably safely among the plants and their roots where larger fish cannot enter. Some of these fish are important commercial species or when they are grown will move to the open ocean where they have an important role in the web of life. However, their role as a secure nursery such not be over stated because birds will hunt among the plants looking for food as will other predators.
Therefore mangroves help bind the shore so that it does not erode, while the trees also provide an important habitat that allows a number of animals to directly and indirectly benefit from the presence of the plants. Without these important plants our marine ecosystem would be less rich and our coasts would be under a greater threat of erosion than they already are.
A small Grey Mangrove shoot among the pneumatophores of more mature plants
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 100, 100mm, f/9.0 and 1/180 SEC] with Canon 430EX III-RT flash)
River Mangroves growing on the mud
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1600, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
River Mangrove trees develop in tightly packed masses, with only the stronger saplings continuing to grow
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1250, 100mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
The mass of River Mangrove roots and trunks are an important habitat, providing a safe location for small juvenile creatures to grow in safety where it is hard for large predators to enter
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 100mm, f/8.0 and 1/250 SEC])
I was enjoying my paddle but I knew that the creek was only about 8 kilometres long so not far to go. Eventually I came to an island, which was more a substantial bit of land that the creek placidly passed around rather than being isolated by the water. The water at this location was very shallow, with my path along the water being blocked on both sides of the island. The eastern side was blocked by being too shallow, while the western side had a tree across it. After trying the eastern side first, I then attempted the western side, dragging my kayak past the tree and into some slightly deeper water. However, once I was past the horizontal obstacle I realised that the creek was probably not worth paddling up further. The water in the creek was dropping towards low tide so the level was low and getting shallower, and I could already see exposed mud ahead of me along both arms of the creek. I therefore decided that I had probably reached my turnaround point for the trip. Rather than simply return along the same side that I had just followed I instead thought it would be a better plan if I ‘circumnavigated’ the island by returning down the other side, which I had previously seen was too shallow. I know, but It seemed like a good idea at the time.
Happily, in dragging my kayak past another fallen tree on the other side, I became aware of some of the small life that existed in this part of the creek.
I squeezed through on the right, dragging my kayak, the island is on the left
(GoPro HERO8 Black Screen capture)
Looking towards the end of the creek from the island, both arms had exposed mud flats a little further up
(Apple iPhone 8 [ISO 20, 3.99mm, f/1.8 and 1/200 SEC])
There were a number of Grapsid crabs moving through the small twigs and other detritus the receding tide was leaving behind on the mud. These delightfully beautiful crabs did not flee from me, with some even seemingly appearing to confront me. I swapped a macro lens and flash onto my camera to get some shots. I really liked the red colouring of these crabs as well as the broken ridge between their eyes, giving them a somewhat furrowed brow expression. Theycrabs were of varying sizes, with the one in the photograph being the largest that I saw, and it was approximately 5cm across. These crabs were important components of the ecosystem, by breaking down a lot of the vegetable matter that litters the mud of the mangroves they contributed to the replenishment of the nutrients in the mud.
Another crab was in its burrow on what was the bottom of the creek but was now exposed due to the receding water. I thought it was a different species but I did not get a good look at it. As I approached the burrow the crab seemed to come to the lip of the circular burrow. It was only after I took a photo with the flash that the crab retreated down into its subterranean den.
Grapsid crab among the mud and mangrove detritus on the exposed mud bank
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 100, 100mm, f/9.0 and 1/180 SEC] with Canon 430EX III-RT flash)
Probably a different species, in a burrow on a mud flat
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 100, 100mm, f/13 and 1/180 SEC] with Canon 430EX III-RT flash)
One living organism that made me stop was a simple fungus growing out of the top of what I assumed had been a mangrove tree. The stump was on the dry part of the bank so it may have been a purely terrestrial species. The trunk had lichen growing around its rough bark but it was the fungus at the top that caught my attention. I suppose that I did not expect to see these delicate life forms up this creek, especially in an area so close to a tidal creek. One of fungi still seemed to be growing well while the other two looked like they were coming to the end of their time.
Fungus growing out of a broken mangrove stump
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 1000, 100mm, f/11 and 1/100 SEC])
The other creatures that made me stop and think were some water striders. I guess that I always see them in fresh water so I do not expect to see them in the salty or brackish water of this creek. There were a multitude of small ones, which I presume were juvenile striders, in the very shallow water at the fringe of the land. They always stayed in that area, even when I approached. Slightly further out from the exposed mud were larger striders, probably the adults of the species that I think was Tenagogerris euphrosyne. The adults would move further away as I approached but would come slightly closer if I stayed still but would not return to the area of the smaller striders until I had moved away. The adults in the bottom photo are the female in front, larger than the male behind her. Presumably, the male is mate guarding, keeping other potential suitors away from her.
Tiny, young water striders at the waters edge
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 100, 100mm, f/13 and 1/180 SEC] with Canon 430EX III-RT flash)
Two adults
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 640, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
After my macro photography I knew that it was time to start the trip back down the creek, especially because the tide was receding so the later I left my return the better the chance that I would be walking through sticky mud. Actually, for the first part of the trip, I did indeed do some walking beside my kayak but once I was past the blockage on the eastern side that I had initially seen on my way up, I was able to start padding again.
Looking along the eastern side of the island, where the creek was very shallow, leading to me dragging the kayak for the length of this photograph
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM [ISO 1000, 100mm, f/14 and 1/100 SEC])
The area around the creek was not pristine bushland with a number of houses along the way, although those abodes seemed to be on higher ground, well away from the banks of the creek. That said, the creek seemed to be less disturbed than the main part of the Clyde River where I never felt that I was getting away from things. There were a few, private wharves on the creek banks but most were designed to support small boats at high tide, so they did not extend far out into the creek. I saw one wharf that was obviously abandoned as it slowly broke and fell into the mud.
Dilapidated wharf along the creek
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 1000, 100mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
My trip back was made eventful because I finally was able to take some pictures of a juvenile Striated Heron (Butorides striata) that I believed I had seen along most of my journey that morning. I would come around a bend only to see a darkish brown bird, that somewhat resembled a dark White-faced Heron take off in startled flight. I was annoyed that I somehow managed to repeatedly disturb this skittish bird, even when I was sure that I had seen where it had landed so that I could approach it slowly from a wide direction.
Paddling along, I saw some movement on the bank and realised that this was the bird that I had been after. I smoothly retrieved my camera from the deck bag and took a couple of quiet strokes to set my kayak to drift slowly towards the heron. I was hoping not to disturb the bird while it made its way around the curved shore of this small, shallow indentation in the mangroves. It was carefully stepping through the aerial routes of the plants, but staying at the waters edge. I saw its beak dart forward once but if it caught some food it was very small. The heron appeared to open and close its bill a few times so I am not sure if it was successful. Eventually, I think my kayak drifted too close and the bird ran up into the mangrove plants before flying off.
Juvenile Striated Heron hunting in the Grey Mangroves at low tide
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
I’ll be honest, I was on a bit of a high after capturing those shots of the Striated Heron. It was not a rare bird but it was a new species for me and I was just relieved that I had finally taken some shots of the bird that had eluded me for the morning. I also felt that seeing the heron justified the trip down to photograph along Cyne Mallowes Creek. While the heron was indeed the highlight of the morning I was about to have another enjoyable experience but for a different reason.
I had noticed what was probably a Mangrove Oyster (Saccostrea commercialis) and some very small barnacles on a River Mangrove trunk that I thought may make a good photograph. I just let the kayak drift slowly towards the mangrove as I took some shots. When the kayak gently bumped into the bank a quick movement of white on the mud caught my attention and I realised that the mud around these mangroves was being prowled across by a number of different crabs.
Mangrove Oysters and barnacles attached to the lower part of a young mangrove
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/250 SEC])
Once I noticed the first crab, I saw a number of other ones. I was also lucky because the flow of the creek was slowly pushing me along the bank at a pace that meant I could photograph. Some crabs would flee as I passed them but others continued with their activities, not bothered as I slowly floated close by.
Smooth-handed Ghost Crabs (Ocypode cordimanus) were the most common crabs I saw. These crabs are widely distributed across both the Indian and Pacific Oceans. They make burrows above the tide in the mud and emerge to forage for organic matter to scavenge.
Semaphore Crabs (Heloecius cordiformis), predominantly younger ones distinguished by their orange claws and legs were also common. These crabs can breath both air and in the water. This crab is a scavenger of organic matter and it will use its claws interchangeably to pass food from the source to its mouth.
Red Fingered Marsh Crab (Parasesarma erythodactyla) is truly a stunning looking crab, especially the males because the colours are more pronounced. Like the other crabs this species lives in a burrow, seen to the back of the photo on the crab’s right, and feeds on organic matter.
Ghost Crab (top) and Semaphore Crab among the mangroves
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
Ghost Crab
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
Semaphore Crab
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/250 SEC])
Red Fingered Marsh Crab
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 800, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
The crabs were near the mouth of Cyne Mallowes Creek where it joined the Clyde River. When I swung into the river, it was like a different world because the wind was coming strongly from the south and I had been protected from most of it while I was paddling in the creek. However, when I entered the Clyde River, I had to paddle almost due south in that wide river so I had little protection from the wind. Fortunately, the wind did not cause me too much bother and I was able to keep up a good pace.
I still had one more shot that I wanted to take on the river and I apologise that the shot below is from a GoPro, I just wanted to take a picture and the GoPro was the best device I had at hand. I had seen a larger number of these Jelly Blubbers (Catostylus mosaicus) both times I was paddling in the Clyde River so I thought it would be good to get a shot. These planktonic feeders are the most common jellyfish encountered on Australia’s east coast and while they have stinging cells they are not lethal to humans, although they could cause some pain.
Jelly Blubber in the Clyde River
(GoPro HERO8 Black Screen capture)
I kept paddling through the wind, with some respite once I got close to the west bank of the river because the river curved in a bit there providing a lee from the wind. The paddle back from the creek was only about 1.5 kilometres so it was not long. I was sad that the paddle was over because I had enjoyed it, particularly all the things that I had seen.
After I had packed my things into the car, put the kayak on the roof racks and changed into clean, dry clothes for the drive back to Canberra I saw a group of three Australian Pelicans (Pelecanus conspicillatus) flying south down the river into the wind. I grabbed my camera to get a shot. They were not going fast because of the headwind they were facing and it almost looked like they were hovering at times. I am glad that I saw those majestic birds flying because it seemed like a fitting end to a wonderful morning.
Australian Pelicans flying over the Clyde River at Nelligen
(Canon EOS 6D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 200, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/320 SEC])
I really enjoyed my paddle up Cyne Mallowes Creek and would recommend it to anybody. I suspect that I will return because I am sure that there is still more to see in the creek and I would love to do the trip again when the light is better for photography. I was so happy to see the animals that I saw and there were also others that I was not fast enough to photograph but I look forward to trying another time.
We are so fortunate to have a creek like Cyne Mallowes that is accessible to us and yet still filled with animal life, I hope to be back in the not too distant future to again enjoy the wonderful wildlife.
Thanks for reading this post and thanks also for looking at my photos. I hope you come back again to read more about some of the wonderful natural things that the Australian Capital Territory has on offer. All the best until the next post.