After about twenty minutes of easy driving, after taking the exit off the Hume Highway onto the Federal Highway heading towards Canberra, motorists will see a long, steep-sided hill range to the right with sporadic tree covering. To the left, Google Maps will display a large blue body of water, Lake George. For most of the last decade, people would have suffered cognitive dissonance looking at Google’s blue symbology but when they looked to where the water should be they would be confused by the dry, withered flat ground passing the car window. However, with the rain of the past 18 months the lake is almost back to its glory days. It is easily visible from the Federal Highway and a stop at Weereewa Lookout shows a body of extensive water covering the area between the high ground to the east and west. It is great to see the water in Lake George again, and to see the beautiful wildlife the water is supporting. I visited the lake twice recently and was thrilled with all the birdlife as well as the interesting insects. I of course took my camera with me and I hope that you enjoy the photographs below.
Lake George is a large, shallow lake that has no outflow but sits on low, flat land above deep compacted sediment and will fill when heavy continuous rain and streams carry water into the lake. The 1990s was the last time that the lake was completely full and it held a comparable amount of water to Sydney Harbour. In the distant past, when the lake has been full, Canberrans and other locals used it for sailing, power boating, water skiing and other water based pursuits. Although the water itself is not that good to drink because of the high salt level, indeed the local Ngunnawal Aborigines named it Weereewa or ‘bad water’.
Because there is no regular supply of water into the lake from a river, and because the lake is wide and shallow, the water level will lower quickly during times of hot weather with no rain due to evaporation. The idea of a lake that disappears and reminds me of happy childhood days watching the NTV production of Monkey that the BBC dubbed into English and was a cult hit. In episode 18 of season 1, “Land for the Locusts” the pilgrims run into a Locust Queen and her ravenous hordes who are always chasing a magic lake that disappears and re-appears, akin to Lake George.
I had last been to Lake George in April 2019 when it was so dry and there no was no visible water, just a shimmering heat haze in the distance. Now, thanks to the prevalent La Niña weather system, the rains of the last 18 months have started to really fill the lake again, with the possibility of more rain to come.
A dry Lake George taken almost three years ago in April 2019
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF-S 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM [ISO 200, 35mm, f/22 and 1/20 SEC])
Aerial panorama of the sunrise over a flooded Lake George in January 2022
DJI Mavic Air 2 [ISO 200, 4.5mm, f/2.8 and 1/500 SEC] eight shot panorama
As a child, I remember that when our family drove into Canberra I could see fences running in straight lines off into the waters of the lake. Those fences always seemed somewhat strange to my younger self, why would a person fence across a lake. However, much later, seeing the lake bed dry with stock grazing on the grass I could see that the fence lines were remnants of the dry days when the lake was once again just a large paddock that needed to be divided between grazing stock.
This picture seems to capture an ethereal feeling of the fence heading off into a distance that the viewer can’t see
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 125, 330mm, f/11 and 1/400 SEC])
With the lake being empty for so long, I guess other uses were also found for the dry, flat ground, including remote controlled aircraft flying. Apparently locals would use the area as a landing strip for this aerial hobby but now the table and wind sock seemed like an eerily abandoned symbol of human habitation in some post-apocalyptic flooded land. I also shot this picture from a standing position but in the end I liked the idea of crouching to the height of the table to catch it in more of a silhouette. I also really liked the reflection of the bright colours on the water.
Table and other items in the water, possibly for flying remote controlled aircraft
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 100, 100mm, f/11 and 1/400 SEC])
Adding to that sense of abandonment were the occasional dead tree. This tree might have died during the drought of 2019 or from some other cause but its broken shape also seemed to indicate some destructive force inflicted on the land. However, the healthy trees in the distance, and beside this one, meant that the wildlife still had more than enough vegetation for food and shelter.
Broken, dead tree among dried, long grass, with an Australian Magpie perched on it
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 200, 100mm, f/8.0 and 1/640 SEC])
However, people hadn’t abandoned the lake, indeed the lookout had a constant stream of visitors and visitors were also trying to get closer to the lake shore. I was not the only person down at the level of the lake enjoying this sight that had been absent for almost a decade. The curious were standing on rocks and moving carefully through long grass to enjoy the beauty of this reborn watery habitat.
Two people walking along the lake’s shore watching the wildlife attracted to the lake
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 200, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
There was so much birdlife around the lake. It was truly beautiful to see. The birds were cautious about people, so it was very hard to approach them and the surrounding land being mainly paddocks, farmers had cleared most of the scrub away from the lake shore meaning birds could clearly see people approaching. The lake was not deep, possibly 1.5 metres at maximum and there were probably no real fish life so there were no cormorants or darters to be seen. Other specialist diving birds like grebes were also absent from what I could see but wading birds were out in strength.
Variety of birds making use of Lake George
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 100, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/500 SEC])
Of course, it was not just water birds that were enjoying the influx of life brought by the waters. Terrestrial birds, such as this Australasian Pipit (Anthus novaeseelandiae), were eating their fill of the insects that existed in droves around the edge of the lake. There were two pipits that were moving through the low growing vegetation, occasionally chasing a flying insect or plucking one from a short plant.
Australasian Pipit exploring the love vegetation around the shore
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 100, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/500 SEC])
However, it was the water birds that were present in numbers, particularly Black Swans (Cygnus atratus), which were probably the largest birds on the lake. They were swimming across the lake, where their long necks would have been prerfect for eating the plants that now existed under the surface. The swans peacefully swam across the water’s surface, in loose groups, seemingly without other birds disturbing them. They stayed on the lake while I was there, with none of them being visible along the shore.
Black Swans on Lake George
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 100, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/500 SEC])
There were at least three Masked Lapwings (Vanellus miles) near where I was standing but because these birds are territorial there could have been other lapwings on other parts of the lake. They were preening but I had seen them moving along the shore looking for food. The lake would probably help them find small insects, especially those driven up near the ground surface by the rising water. In addition, the recent rains and moist conditions around the lake were attracting a lot of insects, which were breeding, creating an ample food supply for these birds.
Masked Lapwings preening themselves
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 200, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
There were a number of White-faced Herons (Egretta novaehollandiae) along the shore, including what could have been some juveniles. These common birds were walking gracefully through the shallows, lifting each leg deliberately, scanning ahead as they walked. Occasionally, their beak darted at something in the water but the target was always too small to see what the bird was consuming. I was lucky when a heron flew along the edge of the lake, passing between me and the sun. As it approached my position I was able to take the photograph below where the rising sun was shining through the wing feathers of the bird but the bird itself was not silhouetted by the sun.
White-faced Heron flying over the lake
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 200, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
I didn't see any Australian White Ibis (Threskiornis molucca) along the water’s edge but a group of four flew by very low while I was photographing. They were flying northwards, arcing around to follow the bank as it moved closer to the road but I lost sight of them when their flight path went behind some trees.
Australian White Ibis on the wing
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 200, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
I was also able to photograph this pair of Pacific Black Ducks (Anas superciliosa) flying south along the lake shore but there were more of these ducks swimming further out, they just did not want to allow me to get too close.
Pacific Black Ducks
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 160, 400mm, f/11 and 1/800 SEC])
The final birds that I was able to photograph were a group of European Starlings (Sturnus vulgaris) that were perched high in a dead tree. This introduced species has made themselves at home in Australia, particularly in areas where they can access water. I have seen them in great numbers in the reeds on Lake Burley Griffin and they seemed to be doing well at Lake George also because the brownish birds in the picture were juvenile starlings, meaning the birds were breeding. These birds were introduced into Australia in the latter half of the 19th century. They have become pests of crops in Australia and, because they are hollow breeders, they compete with Australian native birds for those precious hollows that are less easy to find now because of extensive habitat destruction across the continent, especially in and surrounding urban areas, where starlings are most prevalent.
European Starlings perched in a dead tree
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 160, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
While the lake was a great drawcard to birds, there were other wonderful creatures around, particularly a beautiful array of insects.
Several Slender Ringtails (Austrolestes analis) were grasping long grass stalks. Normally, I was only aware of their presence when I clumsily walked through the long grass, sending the little insects off in search of a safer perch. I would then try to track these colourful, common damselflies because they were so pretty in the morning light.
Slender Ringtail on a grass stalk
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 200, 400mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC] two shot focus stacked)
One of my most memorable finds was this female Large Brown Mantis (Archimantis latistyla) making its egg case. I was photographing the damselfly when I noticed something blue behind it. I thought that some litter was caught in the tall grass stalks but then I noticed the greenish-brown female mantis hanging upside down, somewhat like a grass stalk herself. The mantis seemed to be focused on me with her pseudopupils appearing to be fixed on me and her head pointing in my direction. The laying of the egg case was a very good indicator that this insect was female, as were the small wings that meant she was incapable of flying. These mantis will prey on other insects but also small birds, amphibians and reptiles. They will also strike at humans if people approach too closely or handle them roughly.
Large Brown Mantis female while laying her eggs and very aware of my presence
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 200, 148mm, f/8.0 and 1/400 SEC])
A Wandering Percher (Diplacodes bipunctata) was making its way around some plants further back from the water’s edge. It was flying between plants, pausing for a little while before taking off again. Given the orange colouring this could have been an immature male, that would turn a dark red as it matures, or a female that retains this colour. They will travel a distance from water in search of food, generally hunting between the ground and low vegetation such as this one here.
Wandering Percher
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 250, 400mm, f/11 and 1/400 SEC])
There were at least ten Common Brown butterflies (Heteronympha merope) fluttering between the ground and the surrounding plants, including onto the leaves of the trees. They were mainly opening their wings to sun themselves although they would occasionally circle around each other to ascertain if they had found a mate. Their open wings under the morning sun came up a beautiful orange-brown. I was fortunate when one of the butterflies decided to land on a thistle.I don’t know if it was feeding because it landed on a dead flower but it meant a purple flower was nicely blurred in the background. These fascinating insects have adapted well to Canberra’s conditions. The female can actually hide away during the hottest part of summer in a reverse hibernation, emerging when it is cooler in late summer or early spring. She will mate with a male but may delay laying eggs for up to four months until she detects that the autumn rains are imminent meaning that there will be food for the caterpillars. The young caterpillars can feed on the dry, old winter grass when they are young before the spring rains bring lush new grass allowing the older caterpillars to take full advantage of that rich food source. They consume both native and introduced grasses hence why this butterfly exists so well in a place like Canberra with extensive cultivated lawns as well as remnant native grasslands.
Common Brown butterfly on a thistle
(Canon EOS 7D Mk II with a Canon EF100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS II USM [ISO 250, 400mm, f/11 and 1/400 SEC])
I was thrilled to see Lake George full of water again, reminding me of how it looked so many years ago. The lake suffers under the long dry spells that are a feature of Australia and are set to get worse if the climate keeps warming. I hope that the current La Niña weather system will continue to come again in future years so that future generations will also have a chance to see Lake George and the beautiful wildlife that inhabitants the wetland.
Thanks for reading this post and thanks also for looking at my photos. I hope you come back again to read more about some of the wonderful natural things that the region around the Australian Capital Territory has on offer. All the best until the next post.